And so on to the wines which François and Alison presented. 2010 is the first vintage of this Domaine and all the pre-dinner wines were from this vintage; the first two were Bourgogne Blanc & Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Charmois – the Bourgogne Blanc was quite closed on the nose, almost Chabliesque and in many ways the least expressive of the range, which may be due to the fact it is nearest to bottling.  It was fresh and with great texture – in 18 months I have no fear that this will be singing. The Saint Aubin was stunning, I love this appellation.  It has richness but also a spine  and sees a tiny (12%) of new oak. There is very little produced, so little in fact that it is sold out, and I didn’t buy any and regret it. Next we moved to Puligny-Montrachet having the Villages first and then the Champs Gains. Villages was a step up, it sees 1 year in barrel (15% new) with lees and is from a plot at an elevation of 230 metres.  The Champ Gains was very impressive.  The first of the 1er Crus, it was very pretty, fine honed and with real complexity.

Having moved into 1er Cru territory, we now had a trio – Folatières, Les Perrières & Les Combettes – this was fascinating, all having their champions amongst the team, so rather than describe the wines using my dodgy adjectives, I will give my views on their personalities. Folatières is more of a military man, bold with broader shoulders.  The Perrières were more steely, almost stern but not quite, aristocrat. The Combettes is the extravagant man about town who you know, under a slightly brash exterior, is the kind of guy you want on your side…think I better stop this now, as I’m getting carried away. If I had to have just one, it would be Combettes but I feel guilty (a good sign) saying that. Our resident Burgoholic, Tom Bird, I know would champion the Perrières to his last word…

The last pair was two Chassagne-Montrachet  1er Cru’s Les Clos Saint-Jean & Les Macherelles – I have far less experience of Chassagne than Puligny so found this an excellent opportunity. The Clos St.Jean is from a vineyard only planted in 2003 and has exquisite balance when you take the recent planting into consideration – this is a wine to watch. The Macherelles was to me a step up, very expressive, crying out for food (Lobster). The whole tasting had been brilliant with the differences from one wine to another pronounced.  The overall style? It is one of minerality and finesse – these are wines for the medium to long term and the lack of oak is great to see.

After a glass of Delamotte Champagne, we then moved on to dinner,  with which we had wines from Domaine Louis Carillon as there is no “François” pre 2010. The first course of Seared scallops, fennel tatin, baby spinach and citrus dressing we had with Puligny-Montrachet Villages 2008 & 2009, the 2008 opened up in the glass with a leesy richness developing nicely.   The 2009 was to my mind less complex, more straight forward and delicious but I tend to find 2009 a less exciting vintage for whites than the 2008 and this showed here.  2009 will be delicious from the off but 2008 I feel has the edge on potential and complexity. The next course – Roasted Veal Filet, dulce glazed salsify, carrot pulp and bok choi was served with 1er Cru Champs Gains 2008 & 2009.  I look back at my notes and notice I gave 2008 18 points and 2009 17-18 points; this seems correct on reflection, the 2008, as with the Villages before, just shaded it over the 2009.

The final two wines with Mini tour de France cheeses were Combettes 2007 and Les Perrières 2007.  My notes had by this stage become brief but I gave Combettes 19 which is high for me; the note says “rich but fresh, great”.  For the Perrières I commented “as with 2010 more taut again” – given that 2007 is a taut vintage, this is not a surprise. The overall feeling was that the dinner wines were delicious but the 2010 was where the excitement lies, this may be convenient for me to say but I feel it is the truth…exciting times ahead.

Visit our website for more information about Domaine François Carillon.

Click here to read the full release for the 2010 vintage.

Further Options

The top 10 at Corney & Barrow

 18 Aug 2011 by Richard Hemming, JancisRobinson.com

Corney & Barrow very kindly offered subscribers to this site some free tickets to their summer tasting in June. They didn’t come without a catch, however, since I asked the lucky few to rank and score their top 10 wines of the tasting. So, many thanks to Tim Jackson, Mark Chenhall, Andy MacFaul, Leigh Johnson and Nick Davidson for sharing their thoughts with us.

It was an informal experiment that nonetheless yielded strong results. All three of the J J Prüm Rieslings that were on show appear in our aggregate top 10. As Mark commented, ‘they are just so good, and their combination of fruit, acidity and precise minerality make for a compelling mouthful of wine’.

The Achaval Ferrer wines were all highly thought of too, with Finca Bella Vista at number 2 in the charts (and Finca Mirador at number 11) – although Tim comments that they are ‘all well made, clearly, but in an overly hedonistic alcoholic fashion that Argentina doesn’t need to own’.

The Romeo Rioja at number 4 also split opinion, with several of us noting its relentlessly modern and powerful style – although all agreeing it is impressive. There was general admiration for the Delamotte champagnes too, with the newly released Blanc de Blancs 2002 the overall preference.

Looking at the list as a whole, it has a pleasingly catholic range of origin and style – a credit to to Corney & Barrow’s buying team. It also illustrates reassuringly varied taste from our five volunteers. It doesn’t feature much in the way of bargains, however, and indeed the whole portfolio is stoutly priced.

Thanks again to Tim, Mark, Andy, Leigh, Nick and all at Corney & Barrow for their help.

The aggregate top 10, compiled from the rankings from all six of us, is as follows:

1. J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2009 Mosel
2 .Achaval Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2007 Mendoza
3. Biserno, Il Pino di Biserno 2007 IGT Toscana
4. Benjamin Romeo, La Cueva del Contador 2007 Rioja
5. René Rostaing, Cuvée Les Terroirs 2008 Côte Rôtie
6. J J Prüm, Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2008 Mosel
7. Giacomo Conterno, Cascia Francia 2008 Barbera d’Alba
8. J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel
9. Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 Champagne
10. Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa Valley

My full notes follow below, ordered by style and country or region. Within each section they are grouped by colour and then listed alphabetically by producer (sur)name.

 
CHAMPAGNE

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 Champagne 16.5 Drink 2011-2014
Cream cheese on the nose, then toast on the palate. Light bodied, ephemeral, perhaps missing a bit of vim, but a classy number nonetheless. (RH) 12%
£39.99 Corney & Barrow

ROSÉ

Olivier Leflaive, Cuvée Margoton Rosé 2009 Bourgogne 15 Drink 2010-2011
Very light. Not sure it tastes of anything really. (RH) 12.5%
£10.99 Corney & Barrow

Ch Léoube, Le Secret de Léoube Rosé 2010 Côtes de Provence 16.5 Drink 2011-2012
Made by Jean-Jaques Ott, who sold his eponymous winery to Louis Roederer in 2000. It has all the mineral quality and texture of the best Provence rosé but with more concentration, fullness and body than most. (RH) 13%
£19.99 Corney & Barrow

Ch Léoube, Rosé 2010 Côtes de Provence 16 Drink 2011-2012
Gentle, definite mineral scent. Peachy and floral. Very slight but very good at what it does. (RH) 12.5%
£13.99 Corney & Barrow

Tissier, Rosé 2010 Sancerre 16 Drink 2011-2012
Leafy, good level of red cherry and lemon sherbet flavour. Dry, refreshing. (RH) 12.5%
£14.99 Corney & Barrow

ARGENTINA

Dominio de Toyo Torrontés/Chardonnay 2010 Famatina Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Smells much more like Torrontés than Chardonnay. Soapy. Steep at the price. (RH) 12.5%
£7.29 Corney & Barrow

J & F Lurton, Gran Lurton Corte Friulano 2009 Uco Valley 16.5 Drink 2011-2014
Oak comes through well: creamy spicy, vanilla – quite thick on the tongue. Long, smoky finish. Not for the oakophobic. (RH) 13%
£14.29 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Quimera 2008 Mendoza 16+ Drink 2012-2015
Scented, fragrant, vibrant fruit but quite austere and unyielding on the palate. Needs time – a sleeping giant. (RH) 14%
£24.99 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Mirador Malbec 2007 Medrano 17 Drink 2011-2017
Clay vineyard at 2,600 feet above sea level. Blueberries, cherries, loads of purity and length. Has all the character of Malbec without the spoofy overkill. (RH) 14%
£51.99 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2007 Mendoza 16.5+ Drink 2013-2017
Limestone vineyard at 3,100 feet above sea level. More tannic and taut than the Mirador. Fine yet muscular. Little complexity – as of yet? (RH) 14%
£51.99 Corney & Barrow

Dominio de Toyo Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2010 Famatina Valley 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
A bit reductive in a not unattractive way. Light but not watery. Easy drinking, satisfyingly dry. (RH) 12.5%
£7.29 Corney & Barrow

Ruca Malen, Kinien Malbec 2007 Mendoza 16+ Drink 2011-2013
Violets, plums, creamy vanilla oak. Dry tannins, full and powerful, high acid. Nice development – and still more to come, it seems. (RH) 14%
£19.99 Corney & Barrow

AUSTRALIA & SOUTH AFRICA

Heywood Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2010 South Eastern Australia 15 Drink 2011
Neutral, light grass and lime. Decent but undistinguished. (RH) 11.5%
£7.99 Corney & Barrow

Old Vines Wine Cellars Chenin Blanc 2009 Stellenbosch 15 Drink 2011
Dry, a bit cheesy. Ripe enough though rather wishy-washy overall. (RH) 13%
£9.29 Corney & Barrow

Eagle Vale Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2008 Margaret River 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Green pepper, black cherry, smooth and drinkable but with a herbal dominance that is a bit overblown. (RH) 14%
£12.49 Corney & Barrow

Mont du Toit 2003 Wellington 16.5 Drink 2007-2011
Very ripe blackcurrants, dark liquorice, tar and aniseed. Dense, heavy and oaked. (RH) 14%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Nelson Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2003 Paarl 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Ripe blackcurrant, tomato stalk, light body and some chocolate and smoke to finish. Pretty tannic, though finely chiselled. (RH) 13.5%
£13.99 Corney & Barrow

CALIFORNIA & CHILE

**Carmel Road Riesling 2009 Monterey County 16 Drink 2011-2014
Lime, lemongrass plus some unexpected honey on the palate. Dry finish, but then lots of opulent stone fruit which undermines the Riesling-ness. (RH) 13%
£14.39 Corney & Barrow

**Carmel Road Pinot Noir 2009 Monterey County 17 Drink 2011-2014
Luscious red fruit with cordial style concentration. Sweet and fruit-centric, but dry on the finish. Not for Pinot purists, but a good example in the oversized mode. (RH) 14%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Viña Mar, Reserva Pinot Noir 2010 Casablanca Valley 14.5 Drink 2011-2012
Very tame nose. Light, a bit meaningless, not a good buy at the price. Nowhere near as good as their 2008 was. (RH) 14%
£9.99 Corney & Barrow

Rosario Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Central Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Bit of reduction, vibrant blackcurrant juice. Prominent oak but nicely handled. Technical but quaffable. (RH) 13%
£6.99 Corney & Barrow

San Pedro, 1865 Single Vineyard Carmenère 2009 Maule Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Medicinal, syrupy fruit. Floaty, sweet oak – unintegrated. Peppery finish adds a bit of interest. Not bad, just not as premium as it tries to be. (RH) 14.5%
£12.99 Corney & Barrow

 FRENCH WHITE

**Henri Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Vin de Pays du Val de Loire 15 Drink 2011-2012
Grassy, very hard and citric. Sour finish. Hard. (RH) 12.5%
£9.99 Corney & Barrow

André et Edmond Figeat, Les Chaumiennes 2010 Pouilly-Fumé 15.5 Drink 2011-2012
Mineral, smoke, slate – very true. Austere, bitter juniper finish. Initially appealing but seems a bit too bitter to enjoy in quantity. (RH) 13%
£13.79 Corney & Barrow

Ch Grinou, La Combe de Grinou 2009 Bergerac 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
60% Sémillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc. Green pepper, lime, very sharp but not over-zealous acid. Dry, plump, floral. (RH) 12%
£8.29 Corney & Barrow

FRENCH RED

**Bosquet des Papes, Chante le Merle 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 17 Drink 2010-2016
Bronzed colour. Some meat and gravy on the palate, lots of concentration, ultra smooth tannic paste. As warm and inviting as a fireside. (RH) 13.5%
£46.89 Corney & Barrow

**Bourg, Les Graviers 2009 St-Nicolas de Bourgueil 16 Drink 2011-2014
Fragrant, leathery, luxurious. Bit of green leaf for authenticity – bright pink hue, tame tannins, a few sprinkles of dark chocolate. (RH) 12.5%
£12.49 Corney & Barrow

Jean-Pierre Moueix, Corney & Barrow Company Reserve 2005 Bordeaux 15.5 Drink 2008-2011
Light, rather fruitless. Liquorice and a touch of toast to finish, but rather dull. Drink now. (RH) 13%
£11.49 Corney & Barrow

René Rostaing, Cuvée Les Terroirs 2008 Côte Rôtie 17 Drink 2013-2018
in 2008, Rostaing blended the three separate cuvées he usually makes into one wine. Really peppered. Violets, blackberries and seared meat. Youthful – too keen, needs time. Plenty of acid to last. (RH) 13.5%
£34.99 Corney & Barrow

Saissac Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 IGP Pays d’Oc 16 Drink 2011-2015
Subtle black fruit perfume with chocolate, dark spice, melded tannins and a slight bitter twist. VGV (RH) 13%
£7.49 Corney & Barrow

Tardieu Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2008 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 16 Drink 2011-2015
Scented and perfumed on the nose, with a gravelly texture on the palate and plenty of heat on the finish – better integration than their 08 Rasteau. (RH) 14.5%
£39.19 Corney & Barrow

Tardieu Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2008 Rasteau 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
Ripe cherry cake nose. Bit of VA lurking about, and a little spirity too. (RH) 14%
£16.59 Corney & Barrow

 GERMANY

J J Prüm, Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2008 Mosel 16.5 Drink 2011-2021
Slate and steel, tropical lime, fragrant and spicy. Babyfaced, but approachable now. Much less abrasive and therefore much more appealing than the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett. (RH) 9.5%
£25.29 Corney & Barrow

J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Ausese Goldkapsel 2009 Mosel 17.5+ Drink 2014-2029
Only primary now, but the balance and length attests to its longevity. Wonderful honeyed purity. Every adjective you can think of for Riesling is here. Very very long and sweet to finish. (RH) 7.5%
£64.69 Corney & Barrow

J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel 16 Drink 2011-2016
So pungent! Really very extreme – perhaps too sulphurous. I tasted this recently in my MW exam and it perplexed me then too. (RH) 9.5%
£20.19 Corney & Barrow

 ITALY

Il Carretto, Blanco 2010 IGT Sicilia 15 Drink 2011-2012
Almond and marzipan fragrance plus banana and white pepper. Tastes like Fiano plus Grüner Veltliner plus Viognier (turns out it’s Grillo). Bit floral for some, but good enough for the money. (RH) 12%
£6.49 Corney & Barrow

Cecilia Beretta, Masseria Bianca Fiano 2010 IGT Salento 15.5 Drink 2011-2012
Aromatic, rich and viscous. Firm, with a bit of phenolic grip. Bitters to finish. (RH) 14%
£7.99 Corney & Barrow

**Enrico Santini, Campo alla Casa 2009 Bolgheri 15 Drink 2011-2012
Grapefruit, banana, rather sharply acidic. Plus there’s an aftershave type of flavour. Bit of a mish-mash. (RH) 13.5%
£14.99 Corney & Barrow

Biserno, Il Pino di Biserno 2007 IGT Toscana 17 Drink 2011-2016
Blackcurrant, truffle, mushroom, earth. Leaf litter on the palate, wonderful creaminess, tannins are loose but supportive. Fine acid. (RH) 14%
£38.99 Corney & Barrow

Il Carretto 2010 IGT Puglia 16 Drink 2011-2014
Simple, cheery cherry fruit. Very drinkable, soft and balanced with a good savoury dryness and respectable length. GV (RH) 12%
£6.49 Corney & Barrow

Giacomo Conterno, Cascina Francia 2008 Barbera d’Alba 16 Drink 2011-2016
Green leaf, black cherry. Dark, impenetrable. Bit of funk on the palate – seems all a bit overbearing to me. Youthful, for sure, but rather heavily extracted too. (RH) 14.5%
£36.69 Corney & Barrow
 

PORTUGAL

Quinta da Chocapalha, Reserva 2008 Lisboa 17 Drink 2011-2013
Flinty and broad like Meursault – the spitting image! Nicely constructed, long smoky finish. Excellent. (RH) 13%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Wine and Soul, Guru 2008 Douro 16.5+ Drink 2011-2013
Tangerine, flowers, nuts, bitter almonds, very serious and firm. Probably needs a few years yet – but it’s already showing signs of oxidation, so not too long. (RH) 12.5%
£27.49 Corney & Barrow

Wine and Soul, Pintas Character 2007 Douro 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Something funky this way comes. Definite fungal character. Not necessarily unattractive, but too dominant. Very dry and unforgiving. (RH) 14.5%
£26.99 Corney & Barrow

SPAIN

Roqueta, Mas Oliveras Macabeo/Chardonnay 2010 Catalunya 14.5 Drink 2011
Nutty, clinical, full bodied. Dry and textural but crude. (RH) 13%
£7.49 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, Predicador Blanco 2009 Rioja 16 Drink 2011-2014
Lovely generous oak, really custardy and powerful. Very much the modern style – oak über alles. (RH) 13.5%
£23.69 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, Predicador 2007 Rioja 16+ Drink 2012-2017
Very closed nose. Better brightness on the palate, but all a bit serious. Needs food, time or both! (RH) 14%
£24.29 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, La Cueva del Contador 2007 Rioja 16.5+ Drink 2013-2023
Dry, quite light bodied. Substantial tannins, but very drinkable. Dry, bold – perhaps a bit too flashy and over-exuberant. (RH) 14%

Visit www.corneyandbarrow.com or call 020 7265 2430 to buy these wines.

Further Options

Andrew kicked off his intro to the assembled “Burgundophiles” (what a great word!) with a typically articulate recommendation (see video below). “You should put yourself – if entirely possible – into a position where you can buy as much grand cru as possible…” Why? Because they are from land that “has been subject to agricultural scrutiny over a long period of time.” Step forward Clos de Tart. 870yrs of agricultural scrutiny (and success) is a pretty strong indication that this is a very special plot. All credit to the meticulous, delicate-handed nuns who founded it, and the 2 (yes, only 2) families who have been in ownership since.
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The advantages of Clos de Tart being the largest of just 5 single owned estates or ‘monopoles’ (can you name the others? clues on our website) are huge, stated Jefford; no management issues, no pollution from other people’s vines and a little bit more room to breathe within the wine-making process. Resource, insight, ‘cultural depth’ and importantly, customers, were the last keys he saw to the Clos’ s success. ”This great wine is a dance between the Mommessin family together with Sylvain on one side, with the customer on the other.” Cue a thank you to you, the customer.

Sylvain then took us through the extra-ordinary selection of wines. Clos de Tart 2009 gave us a very premature glimpse of this superb vintage, which he said is often compared to 2005. “Great Burgundy is made to drink in 15 years’ time” he went onto say, before stating that it will only then be a great wine if it was a great wine from the beginning. There was no doubting this – the wine was deliciously rich, classy and seductive. “This is the kind of Burgundy I hoped I would stumble across,” said Jefford “it is a great wine.”  High praise.

The Forge de Tart 2007 and the Clos de Tart 2007 were slightly more closed that the ’09 and, interestingly, Sylvain said that people often prefer the second wine (La Forge) to the Clos at this stage of its maturing trail. A more open vintage, suitable for the enforced drinking window driven by the market, perhaps. The Clos’ trademark ripeness was clear to see – “Clos de Tart is, of course, Clos de Tard” said Pitiot, referring to his habitually late harvest.
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The Clos de Tart 2001 was utterly divine. My wine of the night and perfectly accompanied by deliciously tender beef fillet. “This is a miracle” said Sylvain, who seemed genuinely shocked “I don’t know why this wine is so perfect!” Big, almost creamy and effortlessly stylish, it reminded me of a beautiful cashmere scarf that you enjoy wearing too much to take off. Interestingly, Sylvain suggested the 2008 may well mirror the 2001.
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The ’99 was starting to open up after a little time in glass. Less obvious than its predecessors, it slightly divided opinion. ‘Needing more time’ was the general consensus – it was probably suffering from the surprisingly stellar showing by the 2001. And lastly the 1996. Attractively savoury and interesting in that it was Sylvain’s first vintage at the helm – he therefore had had no input in the vineyards. Again a dividing of opinion, but all against a back drop of huge appreciation for what this remarkable man has achieved.
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“The best vintages are the ones where we have nothing to do” he said, emphatically, as he rounded up the night…and as he alluded to the cycling holiday he had booked, pre-harvest, for this summer, we crossed our fingers for a great (if scorching) vintage in the making.

Tim Atkin, my very happy neighbour, loved the line-up, and was pro the ‘96. He is a big fan of the Domaine and his enthusiasm seemed indicative of the buzz in the beautiful candle-lit room. What a treat. “I feel very privileged to have tried them” Jefford then enthused, as he took to the podium for the last time. I couldn’t have agreed more.

Click here to watch Andrew Jefford’s Introduction to Burgundy, and Clos de Tart:

Further Options

Following an Amuse bouche of crab we were onto Meursault 1er Cru Sous Le Dos d’Ane 2007 and Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru 2000.  Adam introduced Anne-Claude who spoke with real energy and passion as well as lots of humour.  She recalled how C&B were the Domaines first customer way back in the 1960′s and that, charmingly, there has never been a contract always a “Gentleman’s/womans(!) agreement”. Of the pair of wines Anne-Claude explained that back in 1995 the “Sous Le Dos d’Ane” vineyard was replanted from Pinot Noir to Chardonnay as she had realised that the soil was just so much more like the Meursault Les Perriers soil next door than the Blagny 1er Cru La Piece Sous Le Bois “Pinot” soil (where as an aside Matrot makes very good Pinot) also next door – it was just made for Chardonnay. So from 2000 a Meursault was produced, this Meusault, 2007, was taut and highly strung having a bright future, it is somewhere between Puligny and Meursault in style to my mind. The Folatieres 2000 was one of the happiest surprises of the night for me as it has no rights to be as good as it was, 2000 being a difficult vintage in burgundy but particularly for the whites. I found the Folatieres really balanced a little enjoyable opulence too, spot on. Interestingly Anne-Claude said Folatieres was a very important vineyard for Puligny as a commune as it is a big 1er Cru but also has many growers so fills the role of standard bearer to a degree. The Meursault and Folatieres were served with diver caught Scottish scallops, sauteed wild mushrooms, cep foam and cumbawa (kaffir) lime; it was a great combination.

The final two wines from the Domaine were then served; the two wines were both Grand Crus separated by 1 meter – Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 2006 and Bâtard-Montrachet 1996 they were accompanied by roasted farmhouse veal from Aubrac, cime di rapa cabbage, fondant celeriac and mousseline. It was interesting to taste these two wines with an age gap of 10 years. Bienvenues was described by Anne-Claude as “the fight of her life” because on taking over the Domaine in 1990 it was not in good shape (despite only being the same age as Anne-Claude) it should have been hitting its strides but instead it was in bad health so Anne-Claude decided to go Biodynamic on that vineyard (the Domaine, as of 1998, is well documented as being fully Bio dynamic) and ultimately it worked.. patience and good vineyard work, the ultimate tools of success. I found the Bienvenues structured and youthful, again balanced and with great texture but to my mind there is more to come (some in the room “preferred” it to the Batard but not me) I would be looking again in 2 years. (As an aside the Bienvenues 1999 from Anne-Claude was my white wine of the year last year.)

So on to the Bâtard-Montrachet 1996, as we had done at the master class with Anne-Claude a couple of years ago when we showed the (wonderful) Chevalier, we were keen to show this vintage as it is a highly controversial one. There were those (winemakers and domaines in Burgundy) in 1996 who were scared of the acidity in the wines and de-acidified. Domaine Leflaive did not and the Batard showed that this was completely correct, amazingly at 15 years of age it was just starting to hit it’s stride. From the very first pour, it opened out and was one of those wines that I enjoyed far too much to bother writing detailed tasting notes – even briefly. Had I written anything, it would have been “complete.” If I had a case of it (I don’t!) I would be fascinated to follow this wine by having a bottle a year from now and I would decant it as it just gets better. I have always found the Domaine’s wines all repay decanting.

There was a wonderful story that Anne-Claude told about the 1996′s. In the winery, Anne-Claude and team were getting very nervous as the fermentation just would not start, on the Monday of one week it was suggested that yeast would have to be added on the Saturday if nothing had started of it’s own accord. Anne-Claude’s face at this stage suggested this might not even have been an option but I suppose it would have to have been.. eventually. Anyhow, visiting on the friday (nothing had started on the fermentation front!!) was the Society of Tastevin of Tahiti, who suggested a little song to encourage things along. So out came the Yukelele (seriously!) and everyone was singing away, the visit ended and guess what? The next morning, THE saturday, Anne-Claude got an early call to say the fermentation tanks were now bubbling away!! The 1996′s will forever be the “Yukelele” vintage at C&B from now on.

The Domaine, Anne-Claude and the wines, were on great form for the whole evening it will remain a memorable event.

We did have one more wine – Lodovico 2007 from Tenuta di Biserno in Tuscany – with mushroom Gougère as a way of balancing the end of the meal. It showed very well…click here to read more about it.  The wonderful evening ended with a palate cleansing desert of Blood orange sorbet with Cointreau mousse.

Question: Which of Anne-Claude Leflaive’s wines have you tasted recently? We’d love to know what you thought.

Further Options

It is always a treat to have Aubert de Villaine in the UK to show the Domaine’s wines but for a whole evening, over dinner, was a real privilege. The setting of the Drapers Hall (as recently seen in ‘The King’s Speech’) was perfect.  We had Salon 1997 from magnum in the beautiful drawing room to start the evening, giving a real atmosphere of excitement.

Moving through to dinner, Adam Brett-Smith and Aubert de Villaine both spoke about Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and how the evening would work. Aubert then revealed the first wine; Bâtard Montrachet 1997… What? I can hear you think (if that were possible). This wine has never been served outside of the Domaine; it is usually for family consumption only as the Domaine’s 1/12 of a hectare only produces one barrel. There then followed a ‘lost in translation’ moment when Aubert described the Bâtard as being served at the Domaine in “happy hour” – what a wonderful thought, although I think he alluding to happy moments at the Domaine.

The wine was rich with a dash of Botrytis on the nose – Aubert mentioned this was because the Grand Crus of “Montrachet” are in such a great spot that you can wait for later ripeness without the fear of a flabby wine unlike, say, Meursault . The palate was more savoury and very complex with a lovely length, intriguing and moreish. If only there were more. The Pavé of halibut with pea purée and a cèpe sauce worked well but as with the whole night, the wines held the attention while the food just helped out. The way it should be.

So after a unique start, where next? Well, when discussing what to show at this dinner, we thought it would be most interesting to look at a comparison of two of the Grand Cru’s as a main theme. The two we chose were Richebourg and Romanée-Saint-Vivant, the reasons being that they are very similar in quality but different in style. In the hierarchy of the Domaine’s wines, you could say that from 2007 onwards, the Romanée-Saint-Vivant has just edged above the Richebourg; so it was interesting to compare the two.

The first vintage in which we were to compare them was 1995. Aubert spoke of the vintage as one that started out cool with rain into June and heat then arriving in August. September was wet again so Botrytis was a concern. Harvesting was around the 5th October and there was lots of sorting needed. My notes for the Richebourg 1995 have lots of phrases like dense, rich, muscular. There was real power on the nose and an almost menthol freshness, a touch of savory character behind this. The palate was balance but also youthful…a very impressive start from Richebourg. Romanée-Saint-Vivant 1995 by comparison was tasting less obviously youthful, more complex on the nose with a broader spectrum of aromas, almost pine forest freshness on the palate though, more transparent with more finesse that the Richebourg.

As hoped, the personalities showed so well in this pair – it is not as simple as Richebourg being masculine and Romanée-Saint-Vivant being feminine, but I agree there is truth in that judgement. Interestingly Aubert mentioned that he was a believer in the adage that you can’t go wrong opening Grand Crus (or the best 1er Crus) at 15 years of age which, essentially, these were. The small duck cassoulet was a good partner.

We then had the same two Grand Crus, but now from the 1993 vintage. Aubert described it as a vintage not that different in weather from 1995. A tricky beginning with possibilities of mildew, giving way to a heat wave in August, a little rain and then beautiful weather up to the harvest which was between 20th & 30th Sept. I felt the 1993 came across as possibly more ‘wine –serious’ than the 1995′s; a little more structure and acidity. The personalities were all there to see. These will repay more time very well. The rare fillet of beef was mighty impressive especially given the numbers and worked well with the added structure.

I don’t think an evening with wines as great as these can really have a climax, such was the quality all the way through, but if there was one,  it would have to have been the two Grand Crus in the 2003 vintage. The weather is well documented but essentially, savage sun and heat from April to the end of August with 3 big storms. Not like any other year. That kind of sums it up. Aubert commented that he hadn’t tasted the 2003′s in a little while. The rule of leaving 100 days from bud burst to harvest,  was thrown out of the window in 2003 – it was 80 days!! Also intriguing was the idea that Aubert had been tempted to only bottle the 2003 in magnum but as there was so little produced this would have made keeping people happy very difficult indeed.

As the wines age, Aubert feels the mark of the vintage lessens and the climat (the specific vineyard site) begins to show. I think this was starting to happen. The Richebourg had an amazing Pinot/Syrah type nose and a unique (to me at least) density for Pinot in Burgundy. I would say it will be a fascinating wine to follow over the years, if only there was more of it! The Romanée-Saint-Vivant was, to my mind, a stunning wine with a real balance between fruit and structure. I think in time it will be a stunning example of what could be done in 2003. The marked differences in the two Grand Crus was really evident here. The twice baked cheese soufflé I’m afraid didn’t get much of a glance; far too much discussion of the wines. I was delighted we didn’t get into a chat about winners and losers on the night etc, it wasn’t an evening like that and frankly I have no idea which I thought was “best”.

And so baring a glass of “bottled for C&B” Hine 1988 Early landed Cognac (almost too drinkable), the evening was over. Not a dinner I will ever forget. It was a great opportunity to drink wines such as these with customers and friends who love the wine. Surroundings were wonderful and Aubert spoke in his normal concise, relaxed and informative way. The evening felt effortless, which these things never actually are so a big thanks from me for all the behind the scenes work!

 As a note and for accuracy, all the wines had come direct from the Domaine earlier in the week of the tasting.
 

Further Options

As Adam Brett-Smith and I arrived later on in the month, the fog had lifted but it remained resolutely and penetratingly cold. With the craziness of the January Burgundy Offer season behind us, we were able to concentrate on a very different Burgundy trip. We were privileged to be attending a conference held by Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, every two years, for all of their distributors from around the world. The two days are educational: exchanging views, learning about one another and about any projects at the Domaine as well as building on relationships and enjoying, together, a number of extraordinary tastings. This year’s vertical tasting was such a delight – 12 years of Romanée-Saint-Vivant.

When we arrived to taste, the excitement was palpable. This was, after all, a historical event; a tasting mapping the transition years of a vineyard which, all critics agree, has been a star in the ascendant since 1999.  We were about to taste every vintage back to 1999, from 2009, finishing with one single vintage from an earlier era, 1989. The tasting was held in a dramatic, atmospheric, vaulted cellar where cellar master Bernard Noblet and his team had gone to every length to maximise our appreciation, from the pristine layout of glasses, leaves strewn decoratively along the length of a long candlelit table through to the perfect service of wines at just the right temperature.

Some background:

Romanée-Saint-Vivant has both fascinating recent and distant histories and is in transition, even today. The Domaine de la Romanée-Conti owns 5.28 hectares of the whole Romanée-Saint-Vivant vineyard which at 9,43 hectares is the largest Vosne Romanée grand cru.  It is generally accepted that the vineyard was gifted to the Priory of Saint Vincent in 1232. It remained in the hands of the church until confiscated at the time of the revolution. The heart of the vineyard was acquired by Nicolas-Joseph Marey, son-in-law of Gaspard Monge in 1791 along with the cuverie. The property remained within the eminent Marey-Monge from then on until, in 1966, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti leased the property with first refusal rights were it to be sold. They became owners in to this hugely respected dynasty.

Given the size of the vineyard, there is great variation in soil profile, which the Domaine has been researching for many years. In fact, out of four main parcels, only two systematically, one sometimes with the other almost always sold off. We had seen a presentation before the Romanée-Saint Vivant tasting explaining work being overseen by Nicolas Jacob, vineyard manager, in the vineyard today. Vines have been grubbed up so that production will be from a mere 3.5ha in the immediate future, a radical response to drainage issues.

This was stark reminder of what the Domaine is prepared to do to continue the sustainability of this property.

ROMANEE-SAINT-VIVANT VERTICAL TASTING

2009
Intense plum-ruby, this has a beautiful colour and a wonderful nose, heady, primary black and red fruit, violets and crème de mûre, laced with pepper and spice. The palate takes up the gauntlet, presenting similar aromatics on attack, set within a supple, rich texture – silky, with beautifully-integrated ripe tannins. This is very typical Romanée-Saint Vivant, with the hallmark flamboyance of the vintage – lovely wine.
Corney & Barrow Score 18- to 18+

2008
 A vibrant, limpid ruby, this shimmers invitingly in the glass. The nose is beautiful, caramelised and primary berry fruit vying for dominance, refreshed by hints of dried violets and enhanced by a heady dash of spice. The palate is sweet and generous on attack, easing its way gracefully, revealing a layered complexity through to a long finish, supported by fine-grained tannins – perfectly pitched in the context of the vintage 
Corney & Barrow Score 17++ to 18

2007
Glittering, shimmering ruby, with very faint hints of garnet, this gives a sense of a wine in transition. The nose presents a blend of youthful, sweet, fragrant berry fruit though hints at darker, earthy, mature notes, violet and rose potpourri and shades of leather – intriguing. The palate is similarly rather quirky, at odds initially with the nose, offering very pure red and black fruit, liberally spiced with pepper before revealing a much more sedate side, innate richness complemented by good firm tannins and refreshing acidity. Ultimately both the nose and palate are at one – this has longer legs than we once imagined and warrants further patience
Corney & Barrow Score 17+

2006
Deep, firm ruby, with the faintest hint of garnet, this offers a sensation, inviting nose, from the darker, serious end of the spectrum. This concentrated, toasted black fruit, with an earthy backdrop, is echoed on the palate, which is structured and controlled. An exotically perfumed back palate and the extraordinarily protracted finish, hint at how the wine will progress and the perfectly poised balance of tannins acidity concur – very fine
Corney & Barrow Score 18-

2005
Dense, consistent, intense, jet-shot ruby, this is a beautiful colour- decidedly youthful. The nose is decadent, seductive and sweet – a heady blend of youthful primary notes allied to black fruit compote and earthy back notes, liberally spiced and layered with cream, demanding attention. The palate rises to the challenge with a sense of serenity and nobility suggested by the aromatics. Sedate and authoritative, there is innate richness, concentrated black cherry fruit supported by fine, cocoa-dry tannins. Complex and layered, through to a tremendously long finish, it is clear that there is considerable power here, as yet unleashed – very, very good.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+ to 19

2004
Appealing ruby-garnet in colour, this showed a mark contrast in appearance to that of the intense 2005. The nose is lovely, rather debauched, with hints of caramelised fruit tatin, warm fruitcake and emerging secondary aromatics, combined with a persistent, pure primary palette of perfumed red fruit. The palate is rather sensational in the context of the vintage, rounded, silky, seductive layered and complex. By no means weighty, there is nonetheless an assertive personality, a purity and uplifting freshness throughout and a haunting perfume rose and violet – potpourri, rather than freshly-picked. This is a very attractively balanced 2004, with fine, powdery tannins sustained through a long finish.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 to 18

2003
A very deep, jet-shot ruby, this is very youthful in appearance. The nose is so unusual, playing at the senses with an enticing combination of fresh primary perfume allied to super-spicy, cranberry and cigar box notes with a backdrop which hints at secondary aromas, leather and undergrowth. The palate is something of a surprise, richly-textured certainly yet it dances – gregarious, almost flirtatious in its freshness. There is nonetheless a healthy sense of grip and the finish is both long and high-toned -  remarkable
Corney & Barrow Score 18 to 19

2002
Ruby-garnet in colour, this presents a sherbet-sweet, perfumed nose, bright red fruit and dried petal potpourri. The are hints of hallmark 2002 on the nose, a slightly stalky character playing second fiddle to the fruit. There is something of a disparity between the nose and palate, the latter delivering a plethora of sweet red and black fruit before any hint of the vintage kicks in. Bright and vivacious, this has so much energy and freshness.  There is an elegance and intensity which continues to drive through a long, black fruit profile on the finish
Corney & Barrow Score 17 to(18–) 

2001
A maturing plum-garnet, this is slightly more consistent in colour than the 2002 with a firm, deep core. The nose presents a lovely, decadent, haunting blend of dried fruit compote, juniper, leather and spice, with both lifted freshness and savoury intrigue. The palate maintains this play between youthful fruit and hints of gently advancing maturity. Layers of macerated dark fruit, spice and mocha cream are supported by fine-grained tannins – elegant, intense and beautifully balanced this shows impressive generosity – lovely wine
Corney & Barrow Score 18 to 19

2000
Deep garnet in hue, this offers a very intense, pronounced nose – a combination of macerated autumnal fruit, warm cherry compote, cedar, tobacco and savoury, meaty notes – complex. The palate is cream-textured and upbeat, elegant and fresh – extremely youthful and engaging on attack. There is understated generosity here which has yet to fulfil its potential. Likewise, the palate needs time to meet the challenge presented by the intricacy of the nose but the balance is there and the tannins are sweet and well-integrated, supporting a long, gentle finish.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 to(18+)

1999 
Intense jet-garnet, dense and firm to the core, this 1999 makes an immediate impact. The nose is very subdued, corseted, just hinting at tobacco, spice, macerated black fruit compote, liquorice and pepper. The palate is rich and seductive though remains strictly-controlled, dark, brooding fruit, coated well-integrated ripe tannins, pursuing a focused trajectory from the attack through to the long, pure finish. This seems like textbook Romanée-Saint -Vivant at a very early stage in what will be a long development – so young, so lovely and with so much promise – gorgeous wine.
Corney & Barrow Score 19 to 20 

1989
Slightly faded garnet-tawny, this definitely shows some maturity in terms of appearance. The nose is rather lovely, debauched, presenting leather, game and spice, complemented by a persistent, dried petal perfume. The palate is initially more adroit on attack with dried dark fruit focus to the fore, drier than suggested on the perfumed nose but with an ethereal, captivating beauty, attractive concentration and hallmark Romanée-Saint-Vivant freshness and purity.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 to 18+

Further Options

Last Thursday saw the 5th C&B Burgundy tasting – not quite sure where the time has gone but the 2005 was a good vintage to start on. Nearly 300 customers managed to make it along to the Tower to taste – our largest tasting ever. I think people sometime have a fear about these young wine/barrel tastings but in a joyously good vintage like 2009 it is not a tricky job. The wines were open and are easily understood now even if they are years from being ready. To take you on a brief tour of the tasting, you would start in Northern Burgundy with Chablis and for C&B that means one man – Vincent Dampt. Vincent’s wines, which he started making in 2004, are always a great place to get going, with real precision and class; the 2009’s are generous, the Côte de Léchet was my pick but I’ll buy the Vaillons as I always do.

Next up was Olivier Cyrot & Marc-Emmanuel Cyrot from their family estate of Cyrot-Buthiau, these wines are a new(ish) addition to the range but sit very well; the Bourgogne rouge is a classical easy drinking style and then you go up to the Santenay which was the star for me.  Nicolas & Florence Rossignol of the rising star, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, were next as we moved to Gevrey; these wines were strikingly generous. The Beaune is a beautiful wine, followed by the renowned Gevrey based wines – a very impressive showing. Still from Gevrey we then had Vincent & Delphine Hammel from Domaine des Varoilles, a style that complements our other wines in the village, polished and feminine they show very well. Jean-Louis Trapet was next on the tour and finished our Gevrey producers;  Jean-Louis, as with other producers, is very generous in showing Grand Crus – a highlight for many in the room.

François & Myriam Labet were due to be next but sadly François, who has never missed our tasting, was ill. The wines – both under the Labet label and the Clos Vougeot from Château de la Tour – showed very well. The Clos Vougeots were power packed and intense but easily appreciated. François’ skill as a white wine maker showed though well too with the Meursault Tillets prominent. Nuits-St-Georges was next and that means Olivier Leriche (Domaine de l’Arlot), whose wines are always a highlight. See the video below:

Gilles Jourdan sadly couldn’t be with us but his Côte de Nuits La Robignotte  has been in hot demand since the tasting. François Duvivier of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville was next and, it has to be said, was kept a busy man throughout it. Personally, I love Volnay so I am delighted to see this. From Volnay to Meursault with Catherine Javillier representing the family Domaine – the natural richness of Patrick Javillier’s wines is kept well in check; they showed very well and were classically Meursault. This worked well as Henri Darnat and then the Matrot Clan were next. Henri is a real thinker, his wines see very little oak, in common with Matrot and were on great form; a new discovery for many.

The Matrot range warranted the whole family as representatives – Thierry, Pascale & Elsa – as it is a comprehensive range which gives a great opportunity to taste the different communes.  The Matrot talent for white wine making often means the reds do not get the attention they deserve – they are elegant and delicious. So, last (and therefore most southerly) but by no means least, was Pierre de Benoît of Domaine A&P de Villaine; Aubert de Villaine’s personal vineyard. The wines all showed very well, including the only Aligoté in the room. Mercurey was a “value” star.

Many wines from the offer have sold out but what is great with Burgundy 2009, as it was with Bordeaux, is that below the star studded Grand Crus, there is an abundance of wines that will drink brilliantly – and I am not saying this because I am a wine merchant! They will repay cellaring but they don’t NEED it, tuck in!

Many thanks to all those who attended the tasting – both Suppliers and Customers alike – Feedback always welcomed.

View also David Way’s “2009 Meursault Masters” blogpost on Winefriend.

Further Options

Last Thursday was Bonneau du Martray (BdM) day at C&B with Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière in town. For some crazy reason since we won the agency for the two wines of BdM – the 2009 is our 10th vintage – I have always managed to be away when Jean-Charles has come over.  It wasn’t until last November  that I actually met the great man during a trip to Burgundy (which you can read all about if you click here).

Now, as an important point we are talking here about the only Domaine in Burgundy that produces purely Grand Cru wines and this is no gimmick – just cold hard fact. We had two main events lined up on Thursday – a tasting for the C&B team and a dinner with our friends and customers – with a simple but not that brief lunch in between.

Stage 1 – Gathered in the dining room at HQ, Jean-Charles took us through a brief background to the estate and the winemaking, most of which is covered elsewhere on the C&B site or in the yearly release offer but some snippets in brief; there are 16 different plots for the Corton-Charlemagne and these are made into 16 different wines so as to be able to constantly assess the characteristics of each (Jean-Charles is a detail man!). The estate has an average vine age of 45 years and has a rolling replanting process to ensure this continues. Only 23% of the vines are from clones (I realise it is a word at which point some people glaze over so please bear with me) which enables the character of the estates own vines to continue rather than the clones changing anything (last mention of clones, I promise). I later asked if there were years when plots were excluded and got the precise answer that in 1982 one younger parcel was excluded and likewise in 2004 when one of the 16 parcels was left out (sold off to negoce). The main characteristic of the Domaine and particularly the Corton-Charlemagne is stunning minerality and complexity  – the wine is a product of light rather than heat which I think explains to some degree the mineral and long-lived,sometimes taut character of the wine and may be why a vintage like the “freaky” 2003 was so successful.

Anyway, onto the tasting: 4 vintages of Corton-Charlemagne and one of Le Corton.

2003 Corton-Charlemagne

I will profess to having had this many times more than I deserve (Mr Brett-Smith is a massive fan of all things 2003). It is atypical of the Domaine but also of the vintage, which makes it fun but this doesn’t make it a novelty. The structure is good and the wine in Jean-Charles words “never shut down” (most of BdM’s C-C’s do for a while). There was no acidification (are in 2003) and the balance is there.

2006 Corton-Charlemagne

Fresh and clean and a little more taut than i have come to expect of 2006′s in general. It is a vintage Jean-Charles thinks very highly of as everything is in great balance. The grapes were picked quite early (a wise thing in 2006). It was described as spherical, not round but spherical.

2007 Corton-Charlemagne

A vintage when April was as hot as June is normally…thereafter a dull summer. The wine however is pure class – very mineral an streamlined and not for the hedonist (yet anyway). Jean-Charles said that at the domaine it was the “argumentative” vintage – because his mild manner pickers and staff all got a bit ratty with the endless work that the vintage required.

2008 Corton-Charlemagne

The first time I have tasted this since being at the Domaine last November. More tropical than I expected and more showy than the 2007. I think this will go into itself again but was singing well.

2006 Le Corton

Very persistent palate followed a nose of lovely complex fruit. Only really the tannins suggested the long future this wine clearly has. Another example of the amazing resurgence of this wine under Jean-Charles.

A brilliant tasting ended and I think a few more Bonneau evangelists were “born”.

Adam and I then took Jean-Charles to C&B’s Paternoster bar for lunch with the remainder of the C-C 2006 & 2007 plus a bottle of the Biserno 2007 from Lodovico Antinori…a lot of very lively conversation followed…

Stage 2 – Dinner at Roussillon  

For pre-dinner we had the Corton-Charlemagne 2007 as above with excellent canapes in the bar/private dining area downstairs. Moving upstairs for dinner Adam introduced Jean-Charles who took the 60 dinners through a little history of the estate and then the first two wines on the night; Corton-Charlemagne 2006 & 2001 with excellent Scallops (some of the largest I have seen) with cauliflower and coconut textures. Both shone, the 2006 being a real favourite on my table. The 2001 was my pick and one of the wines of the night I thought  – as a digression is it just me or is 2001 a lovely drinkers, if not stella, vintage everywhere? This 2001 was at a lovely stage, I would say that if you have a case then get it delivered and try a bottle!

Next up was pot roast breast of guinea fowl with truffled leeks and pan seared foie gras – a lovely course that went well with a red and white combo – Corton-Charlemagne 2003 and Le Corton 2001. This worked really well and made for two interesting matches. The Corton 2001 had a lovely nose and was very popular on my table, still young but balanced and lovely for drinking from now on, just like it’s white counterpart from the previous course. The 2003 stood up well to the richness of the dish.

The final course was Cheese – a lovely selection and one that meant we could go back to whites…everyone always says how well whites go with cheese but it seldom is actually done.  This worked very well with the two mature vintages…Corton-Charlemagne 1990 and 1987. The 1990 was stunning, very classy, drinking well but in no way over mature, it had a bit of everything and was very moreish. The 1987 is an old friend to C&B as it is a wine we have used on several occasions to show exactly how great a Domaine this is, the 1987 has no right to be as lovely as it is, it is not a glamorous vintage in any way but is mature and lovely now…alongside the 1990 it was fascinating and much as the 1990 is the blue blooded thoroughbred the 1987 is a reliable handicapper that will never let you down – apologies for the racing analogy!

The evening was a tremendous one with a lovely relaxed atmosphere and food and wines that went brilliantly. Jean-Charles spoke so well and everyone left with a greater understanding and appreciation for this great estate. Here’s to our next 10 vintages with Jean-Charles – from what I have tasted the 2009 should be hitting its stride by then!!

Further Options

Its been 21 years since Alison Buchanan chaired her first Autumn Tasting at the Turnberry Hotel in Ayrshire and much has changed with the fabric of the hotel but the service, food and the quality of our exclusive producers remains top notch.

Yesterday saw 150 guests taste wine from some of our top producers, such as Tenuta di Trinoro, Benjamin Romeo, Château de Lamarque and Schloss Schönborn to name a few and the wines were very well received and the mood in the room was one of high spirits.

Perhaps the most interesting wine of the day was sitting unassumingly at Marcel von den Benken’s table, a rare 1961 Spatlese from his library stocks. It was bright, with youthful acidity and a rich nose of prunes and Christmas cake. It reminded us of PX but this was old Riesling at its best. Apparently his estate has bottles going back to 1735, so I think a visit could be on the cards.

This morning was a real treat and the last two hours have been spent in tutored tastings for the team with Lamarque, Trinoro and Benjamin Romeo. All wines of the highest quality.

Just about to start pouring L’Arlot red and white Burgundy at 3pm for the next tutored tasting so we will report back later today or tomorrow on todays highlights.

Further Options

On reception:
Henri Giraud, Fut de Chêne, 1998 Champagne in magnum

White Wines:
Le Montrachet, Henri Boillot, 2000
Le Montrachet, Domaine Ramonet 1988

Red wines:
Château La Mission Haut-Brion 1989
Château Haut-Brion 1989
Clos des Lambrays 1949 in magnum
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château Rayas 1990
Clos St Denis, Domaine Dujac 1985
La Romanée, Bouchard Père, 1995 in magnum
Le Musigny, Daniel Moine-Hudelot 1978 in magnum
Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Armand Rousseau, 1985
Richebourg, Domaine Meo-Camuzet 1985

Topped off with Glen Grant 1948 malt whisky supplied by us.

Stars?  The Rayas was generally thought to be the loveliest on the night, then for me, the 1949 Clos des Lambrays and Clos St Denis 1985.  Interesting that then two Bordeaux wines that are such stars, still tasted so young and faded into the background alongside the Burgundy wines, which shone superbly.

A very memorable night.

Further Options