First up was Macon Verze 2009, Domaines Leflaive from magnum which we took along, it is starting to drink really well, a nice combination or richness and a racy acidity, it will open out more but is delicious now, I love white burgundy in magnum. Next on the agenda was a pick of mine, aimed slightly at catching one of the team out, Egon, as he’s always going on about this type of wine it was Soave Classico 2010 Tiama. Most people thought it was a little older, it had good soft, mellow Sauvignon like fruit on the nose and a decently complex palate which might have been why people felt it was older, it went down well and quickly. Next was the choice of Mr H and was our last white, it was Kistler Chardonnay 2008. I really liked it and felt it might have been something like Kumeu River from New Zealand it was not hot. It had good complexity, was a touch short possibly but then I m not sure how good a vintage the 2008 is? I enjoyed it, rich and broad but not OTT.

And so with the platter done and steak on its way we moved to the reds starting with a real favourite of mine Cascina Francia Barbera 2008, Giacomo Conterno from magnum, I just love the fact it is packed full of fruit but also has a savoury, almost salty, edge to it, I could drink a lot of it, it’ll age too. Next was another “blind” choice of mine – Barolo 2006, Aldo Conterno – this was picked as being a lot older by most of the team, I chose it because not many of them have seen the oaked side of Nebbiolo. I thought this was well done but for me oak and Nebbiolo should be kept well apart, you get a mint, iodine like nose that is not as elegant as the grape itself, a good wine but not a good barolo in my opinion. Mossy and Egon then chose the next wine which turned out to be Beaucastel CNDP 2001, I have been enjoying more and more Rhônes of late. This was decent but I picked it as more northern rhone than southern, Guido got it right. There was an almost gravy-ish texture, I have a feeling that this is somewhere between a primary and secondary phase, it was ok but there was not enough fruit for my liking. I would love to taste again in 2-3 years, an interesting wine to try blind.

It was then decided we needed something sweet and plumbed for two halves of Filhot 2001, Egon will claim he got this but given that he mentioned every Château and vintage in Sauternes I think his scattered gun approach can not be rewarded. It was decent as a sauternes but I would expect more from a 2001, it was true to Filhot’s style though with a lightness of touch. Huge and myself then decided we needed one more red to see the night out, we went for Ridge Monte Bello 2005. It was a very interesting one, there was no way anyone thought it was old world there was an exotic richness and fruitiness that meant you had to be new world, western Australia was also dismissed as this was bigger in fruit that those. The good thing was that there was no heat and no over high alcohol here. I thought it had very clear red fruits with a little creamy black currant in reserve, it was very good but I wonder how it will develop.

It was a cracking night and good to spend time with our colleagues from the HK office…we were very well looked after by the guys at Planet of the Grapes too, if you like simple proper food and interesting bottles you should go…

Further Options

The evening commenced at 6pm when we congregated outside the main post office opposite Jardine’s House; there our chariot awaited, a twenty-eight seater bus to escort us to the hugely popular restaurant in Sai Kung, namely One Thirty-One. Now with a fair journey ahead we thought it appropriate to serve champagne on board just to oil the cogs in preparation for a great evening ahead and what better champagne than that of Delamotte 2002. So after a couple of three point turns in the bus stop and a layby we finally reached the turning, which led us down off the beaten track and to One Thirty-One. Nestled in the bay of Three Fathoms Cove, One Thirty-One will take your breath away. The restaurant is located in a 3 storey Mediterranean style house situated in one of the most beautiful parts of Sai Kung and a stone throw away from the sea shore. There was word around the table that the dinner setting was reminiscent of something one may find in Barbados, others mentioned it was like dining out in the South of France, it really was idyllic.

Awaiting us was a vertical tasting of Phélan Ségur from 2003 through 2009, to which all wines were showing exceptionally well but if I had to pick a top three it would be 2003, 2005 and 2009 (we still have a few cases of the 2009 remaining, this really is a must buy wine for your cellar). Then onto dinner, where we had one long grand table seating twenty four people, this is where the real superstars of the evening awaited, with five quite superb wines. Opening the dinner up we had the 1996 (from magnums), which was absolutely delicious then to accompany the Foie Gras the 2001 was served. Following a few words from Véronique we were soon welcoming a very rare vintage, the 1975 (to which amazingly there are only 18 bottles remaining in the Château, so a real treat) which was simply gorgeous. Next course to follow was a succulent pigeon breast which was swiftly accompanied by the outstanding 1989, which was very similar to the 1975 but with more weight and flesh to it. And then to the finale, the pièce de résistance, the 1982 complemented by the 72 hour, slow cooked Wagyu Rib. The 1982 was quite sublime, absolutely stunning.

And so the evening was drawing to a close, all that needed to be done was to usher all guests onto the bus for the return leg to Central. The journey back was a touch more mellow, with many no doubt reflecting on a quite superb evening.

Here’s a snap shot into the wines tasted vertically from 2003 to 2009:

2003: Beautiful nose of dark forest fruits and earth, well balanced palate with soft tannins.  A lovely wine.

2004: A gorgeous nose of dark cherries and scorched earth, not as forward as the 2003. Good firm tannins and well balanced palate.

2005: A little closed on the nose (but to be expected being a 2005 and also served straight from the bottle). From the glass jumps, blackcurrants, cherries and earth. A huge mouth feel with firm tannins and good acidity. Give it two years of further bottle age and this will be (well already is) fantastic.

2006: This is a real crowd pleaser. A gorgeous nose of sweet blackcurrants, tobacco and earth. Very accessible now  with rounded, ripe tannins. This will bring much pleasure.

2007: What a pleasant surprise was the 2007, a vintage that has been mistakenly overlooked. Not quite as forward as the 2006, yet still has that wonderful nose of tabacco, and blackcurrant brambles.

2008: Showing a little closed although the lovely earthy, blackcurrant characteristics did still peak through.

2009: Masses of jammy dark forest fruits, well integrated supple tannins and a huge mouth feel, this will be a knockout wine.

Click here to view available wines from Ch. Phélan Ségur.

Further Options

(English Translation Below)

有650多年歷史的Schloss Schönborn是由一個家族私人擁有的德國葡萄酒莊園。現在雖有多間傳統酒莊都是由各大百貨經營，但Schloss Schönborn經過18代守業至今，實在難得。

我們於10月17日在一星Michelin餐廳 – 桃花源舉辦Schloss Schönborn酒宴，並邀請了Herr Marcel Von den Benken到香港參與是次晚宴。餐廳雖沒華麗的裝飾，但客人可於舒適的環境享受佳餚美酒。

Rheingau Riesling QbA, Schloss Schönborn 2009作為第一隻佳釀展開了晚宴的序幕。 清新、有活力、非常充足的白色的果性。

以Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Schönborn 2003 和 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spatlese，Schloss Schönborn 2007配上三小碟的手拍青瓜、醬油滷豆腐和脆皮燒腩仔。前者幹身、清爽、很多礦物氣息及少許辛辣香料。後者是單一果園Marcobrunn，果性非常，而有足夠的酸來平衡酒質，甜美悠揚。

主菜方面，以玻璃明蝦球、椒鹽炸原隻鮮蟹鉗及西芹炒海青斑球等海鮮為主，遂以4種Riesling配襯。Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spatlese, Schloss Schönborn 2008 – medium intensity、不太重身、少甜、還有點dry-finish；Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spatlese Lothar Franz Schloss Schonborn 2001 – 非常complex、黃梅、濃，還有汽油礦物的味道，以致由基本至陳年複雜變化的味道；Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Schloss Schonborn 2006 – 濃郁圓潤、淡黃色、少許礦物和乾果；Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Auslese, Schloss Schönborn 1989 – 金黃色、成熟、乾果、咸檸檬、淡焦糖及以蜜糖作完結。

最後不可缺少的當然是甜品芒果布甸，以甜度較濃的Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Beerenauslese Schloss Schönborn 1995 花香，開放，有點辛辣，礦物和幹杏，活潑，充滿活力和Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Schloss Schönborn 2003 豐富的熱帶水果 (芒果和菠蘿) 、焦糖，清爽的口感，令人驚嘆的平衡。

Herr Marcel Von den Benken讓我們知道2010年份是多麼難得和困難，2010的TBA僅釀約400瓶。好的葡萄酒，好的食物，我們享受著一個美好的夜晚。

————————————————————————————————————————————————-

English Translation:

Schloss Schönborn is a privately-owned German wine estate with 650 years of history. Nowadays, many traditional wineries are operated by major companies. It is rare to have a winery running the business for 18 generations like Schloss Schönborn.

The Schloss Schönborn tasting dinner was held on October 17th in a One Michelin Star restaurant – Tim’s Kitchen. We were both honoured and excited to have Mr. Marcel von den Benken in Hong Kong to host this exclusive dinner. Even though the event was in a restaurant with simple decoration, the guests enjoyed delicious food and wine in a fun and comfortable environment.  The first wine of the evening was Rheingau Riesling QbA, Schloss Schönborn 2009. It’s fresh, dynamic, and abundant in stone fruits.

Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Schönborn 2003 and Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spatlese, Schloss Schönborn 2007 were tasted next with the starters: Chilled Tossed Cucumber, Chiu Chow Soya Bean Curd, Frog’s legs and Roasted Crispy Baby Pork Belly.  The Kabinett is dry, crisp, and minerally with a hint of spice.  The Spatlese is from a single vineyard Marcobrunn, with lots of fruit character, good acid balance, sweet and long finish.

We then chose 4 Riesling wines to be served with the seafood main courses (Crystal King Prawn, Deep-fried Whole Fresh Crab Claw with Peppercorn Salt and Sautéed Fresh Sliced Garoupa Fillet with Celery).  Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spatlese, Schloss Schönborn 2008 has a medium intensity, it’s not too heavy, less sweetness and with a dry finish; Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spatlese Lothar Franz Schloss Schönborn 2001 gives a very complex, concentrated taste, like apricot with mineral tones, resulting in a combination of primary and tertiary character; Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Schloss Schönborn 2006 has a light golden yellow outlook, rich mellow, slightly mineral with a touch of dried fruits; Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Auslese, Schloss Schönborn 1989 is golden yellow, and tastes like ripe pineapple, light caramel and honey. Delicious!

The choice for dessert was mango pudding, accompanied with Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese. Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Beerenauslese Schloss Schönborn 1995 gives floral, open, lively energetic, mineral and dried apricot flavour with a hint of spice. Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Schloss Schönborn 2003 provides a fresh amazing balance of rich tropical fruits (mango and pineapple) with a hint of caramel.

Mr. Marcel Von den Benken told us how difficult and rare it is to obtain 2010 vintage, with only about 400 bottles of TBA produced, so we were counting ourselves very lucky.  The combination of great wine and food made for a fabulous evening.

Browse available Schloss Schönborn wines on our website.

Further Options

A week or so ago saw C&B’s 3^rd Annual Hong Kong tasting at the Shangri-La hotel in Admiralty.  Tickets had sold out well before the event itself and we had many more wines to show than ever before so hopes were high for a cracking evening.  A grand room was readied, bottles opened, chilled and tasted whilst customers started pacing outside in the Atrium (which incidentally had incredible views over the Hong Kong skyline) desperate to get stuck in.  Another great addition this year was that the ever growing HK team was bolstered by Jean Soubeyrand (from Olivier Leflaive), Oliver Hartley and Paul Masters from UK HQ – it was great to have them all with us.

As seems customary at our Hong Kong tastings, come 6 o’clock the room flooded with customers eager to taste their way around what was a terrific selection of wines.  On the first table we gave most people their first glimpse of the spectacularly good Delamotte 2002 along with others in the range and also our own C&B fizz – all set the tone for a great evening.  Jean held court brilliantly, with the selection of red & white Burgundy that he brought with him showing stunningly well.  The room progressed through the world’s wine producing regions and really showed the strength and depth of C&B’s core wine offering.  We also offered glimpses of some of our Hong Kong agencies, with huge praise being directed at the wines from Tardieu-Laurent, Andrea Franchetti, Benjamin Romeo, Achaval Ferrer and many many more…

For the whole evening there was an incredible enthusiastic buzz that seemed to fill the room.  Everyone that I spoke to seemed to have a stand out favourite (mine was the Sicilian ‘Francetti 2008’ which I thought showed beautifully) and almost before we knew it, it was time to collect orders and say our goodbyes.  A wonderful event and one that I’m sure will get bigger & better as the years go by.

The evening finished in great style with steak, frites, good wine, good company, Betty being despatched in a taxi, hats and feather boas (don’t ask!) – all in all a huge success and great fun!

Further Options

Back to Finals day. We were at the beach for 7am setting up our area – the sponsors get a tented area. It was already sweltering. We raced first at 8.20am. We had some tension as now we had to deliver. First race was all about qualifying. Top 6 meant 2 more races for sure and top 3 meant a cup! V briefly it’s a stationary start, about 250m, with 10-12 teams in a race and you clock about 1min 20 secs. You paddle individually about 120 strokes, with 18 to a boat sitting in pairs, you row on one side and effectively stab your paddle into water as far forward as you can and drag it back to about hip level, and snap paddle back forward again out of water and repeat. That’s the technical bit.

It was a great race and we came second on a photo finish. Brilliant start! Also thrashing a rival team from the same Bank (no not wine related) as most of my team. Then we raced again at 11.30. Not so good but we qualified for the Men’s Silver Final – which was the aim. I say Men’s final but we had about 5 women in the squad. All credit to the girls!  Sadly for them they had to accept 3 Crystal Palace fans on the boat. Lucky there wasn’t a game on as I’m not sure who there would be left to turn up at mighty Selhurst Park! In that second race we had lost our timing. It is all about timing. The whole boat must be in time or you’ve had it. Something we wouldn’t let happen again. Three key words for dragon boating. Breathe! Timing! and..Smugglers!! You can’t go wrong if you remember those!

The day by this point was sensationally hot. The place was packed and I’ve never sweated in the shade like that. We paddled out for the final and by now Stanley was thronging. Many people were on the water on junks (party boats or VIP viewing boats) and the noise from the shore and the boats was brilliant. The tension was building. This was it. We were pretty tired having been hanging around all day etc and as we jostled for position on the pontoon, the nerves were kicking in. The starter held us for what seemed forever and then we were off. It was a really tough race but in your mind was just now or never, 10 weeks of training and this is the last dragon boat you’ll see for at least a year, c’mon!!! We rowed like crazy – the tide had changed now so it was harder than before and very hot, with spray in our face. In the end, there was a clear winner and several massed for another photo finish for the places. Somehow it seemed an anti-climax – probably partly as it was the end of the season and partly as we assumed the worst.

Results come through an Iphone app (but of course – this is HK) and then on the tannoy! And after a long wait….. we were announced as 3^rd place!!! A podium finish!! This team’s best ever finish! The first time they had won 2 cups!!! Asked if we wanted to receive the trophy on the beach or on podium we said get us on the podium man!! Then we celebrated 3^rd place with slightly more gusto than England did the 05 Ashes and were promptly ordered off stage. The crowd soaked in Delamotte Brut NV but didn’t seem to mind! Forget your riedels – Champagne Delamotte out of a trophy tastes delicious! It kick started the evening into one of the greats. We polished off the obligatory Corney & Barrow House Blanc alongside gallons of seabreezes (go with it) and then it was party time in Stanley main street. A real sense of achievement and camaraderie. Just a lot of fun too really! Big thanks to the sponsors, the team, spectators and our eye catching drummers!  PADDLES DOWN

Further Options

Kung Hei Fat Choy!!

Well, it is finally the end of the year of the Ox. This means it’s time to stop dragging that heavy plough and lighten the load so you can leap into the year of the golden tiger with grace and speed!  The year ahead will be a flighty one, but ultimately very rewarding – particularly for those of you born in the year of the Sheep, Horse and Dragon (I’m reliably told…sadly this doesn’t apply to me)

For me, still relatively new to HK, I have learnt the great pleasure of being able to celebrate New Year twice as well as getting a second chance at those botched New Year’s resolutions!

***

Hong Kong has quickly become a major hub for fine wine in the world, thanks to the freshly eliminated taxes (from 80%) and fueled by China’s ever growing economy.

A new wine bar and/or merchant is opening every other day, and a wine-drinking revolution is afoot among locals and expats alike. Even a winery can be found on the 8^th floor of an industrial building in Ap Lei Chau!

For a wine lover like me, being in the middle of this revolution is an incredible place to be.

Friday night, for example, was Burgundy night, and white Burgundy at that (a real treat, given that the majority of wines consumed in HK are red).

After getting hideously lost outside Mongkok MTR (the tube, but not as you know it Londoners), a lovely security man rescued me and escorted me to the 8^th floor of the Langham Hotel.

Arranged on the tables were ten full glasses of delicious white Burgundy. Having done the meet and greet with Hong Kong’s wine enthusiasts and bon vivants, the tasting began.

Tasting wines

Raveneau: Chablis Les Montmains 2002

-Rather a stern, almost bitter wine which filled the nose with scents of lemon sherbet and pear drops. By the end of the dinner, the wine had blossomed with more integration and weight.

William Fevre: Chablis  Les Clos 2000

-A touch oxidized on the nose, but with minerally, sea shell nuances. Going back to it half an hour later, the scent of pear drops filled the glass. Good cut of acidity but somewhat austere and showing more maturity than I would have predicted.

Les Heritiers de Comtes Lafon: Macon Milly Lamartine Clos du Four 2004

-Floral, and faintly flinty. Brimming with rich, well weighted fruit; kept fresh with nice minerality running through it. Excellent for the money.

Colin Morey: Meursault 2004

-Toasty oak with hints of almonds. Missing something on the middle palate.

Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet: Meursault Les Perrieres 2004

-Creamed corn and rich, tropical ripe fruit…International in style. Well made, but lacking some refinement. Thankfully more subtle on the palate and rather good.

Carillon: Puligny Montrachet 2002

-TCA

Marc Morey: Puligny Montrachet  Les Referts 2006

-Opulent, rich, caramelly nose. Nice use of oak. Lovely acidity and stunning purity of fruit. Long, lingering finish. Delicious.

The winners of the night (and what do you know…two C&B wines!)…

Colin-Deleger: Chevalier Montrachet  2002

-Classic. Beautifully made. Rich, full and perfectly balanced. Wonderful steely minerality and a lovely finish.

Domaine Leflaive: Batard Montrachet  2001

-Sublime elegance. Nuts and rich caramel fill the nose. Oak is well worked into the background, but is in support throughout. Minerality elegantly provides a backbone to this complex masterpiece.

Bonneau de Martray: Corton Charlemagne 2001

-Subtle hints of vanilla, and dried apricots. Taut, but what a delicious and memorable finish.

***

Saturday, feeling a little on the delicate side, instead of nursing myself better the old fashioned way, I decided to head off to Middle Island off the South coast of HK Island to cut my teeth at Dragon Boating. Having never seen a Dragon Boat before, I had no idea what I was letting my sorry body in for. It’s a unique and truly amazing sport, each boat containing 18 paddlers, someone to steer and someone to beat a drum. Unlike rowing or sculling, the momentum is only generated by twisting one’s entire torso, holding the paddle in one of the most uncomfortable positions imaginable. It seems we were using muscles that most of us didn’t even know we had… until the following morning…and a further 3 days!

At the end of a very painful afternoon, all 40+ weary paddlers sat down to a sumptuous barbecue, sampling some of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club’s Wine list. A list I hope to fill with C&B wines shortly…

Further Options