The top 10 at Corney & Barrow

 18 Aug 2011 by Richard Hemming, JancisRobinson.com

Corney & Barrow very kindly offered subscribers to this site some free tickets to their summer tasting in June. They didn’t come without a catch, however, since I asked the lucky few to rank and score their top 10 wines of the tasting. So, many thanks to Tim Jackson, Mark Chenhall, Andy MacFaul, Leigh Johnson and Nick Davidson for sharing their thoughts with us.

It was an informal experiment that nonetheless yielded strong results. All three of the J J Prüm Rieslings that were on show appear in our aggregate top 10. As Mark commented, ‘they are just so good, and their combination of fruit, acidity and precise minerality make for a compelling mouthful of wine’.

The Achaval Ferrer wines were all highly thought of too, with Finca Bella Vista at number 2 in the charts (and Finca Mirador at number 11) – although Tim comments that they are ‘all well made, clearly, but in an overly hedonistic alcoholic fashion that Argentina doesn’t need to own’.

The Romeo Rioja at number 4 also split opinion, with several of us noting its relentlessly modern and powerful style – although all agreeing it is impressive. There was general admiration for the Delamotte champagnes too, with the newly released Blanc de Blancs 2002 the overall preference.

Looking at the list as a whole, it has a pleasingly catholic range of origin and style – a credit to to Corney & Barrow’s buying team. It also illustrates reassuringly varied taste from our five volunteers. It doesn’t feature much in the way of bargains, however, and indeed the whole portfolio is stoutly priced.

Thanks again to Tim, Mark, Andy, Leigh, Nick and all at Corney & Barrow for their help.

The aggregate top 10, compiled from the rankings from all six of us, is as follows:

1. J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2009 Mosel
2 .Achaval Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2007 Mendoza
3. Biserno, Il Pino di Biserno 2007 IGT Toscana
4. Benjamin Romeo, La Cueva del Contador 2007 Rioja
5. René Rostaing, Cuvée Les Terroirs 2008 Côte Rôtie
6. J J Prüm, Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2008 Mosel
7. Giacomo Conterno, Cascia Francia 2008 Barbera d’Alba
8. J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel
9. Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 Champagne
10. Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa Valley

My full notes follow below, ordered by style and country or region. Within each section they are grouped by colour and then listed alphabetically by producer (sur)name.

 
CHAMPAGNE

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 Champagne 16.5 Drink 2011-2014
Cream cheese on the nose, then toast on the palate. Light bodied, ephemeral, perhaps missing a bit of vim, but a classy number nonetheless. (RH) 12%
£39.99 Corney & Barrow

ROSÉ

Olivier Leflaive, Cuvée Margoton Rosé 2009 Bourgogne 15 Drink 2010-2011
Very light. Not sure it tastes of anything really. (RH) 12.5%
£10.99 Corney & Barrow

Ch Léoube, Le Secret de Léoube Rosé 2010 Côtes de Provence 16.5 Drink 2011-2012
Made by Jean-Jaques Ott, who sold his eponymous winery to Louis Roederer in 2000. It has all the mineral quality and texture of the best Provence rosé but with more concentration, fullness and body than most. (RH) 13%
£19.99 Corney & Barrow

Ch Léoube, Rosé 2010 Côtes de Provence 16 Drink 2011-2012
Gentle, definite mineral scent. Peachy and floral. Very slight but very good at what it does. (RH) 12.5%
£13.99 Corney & Barrow

Tissier, Rosé 2010 Sancerre 16 Drink 2011-2012
Leafy, good level of red cherry and lemon sherbet flavour. Dry, refreshing. (RH) 12.5%
£14.99 Corney & Barrow

ARGENTINA

Dominio de Toyo Torrontés/Chardonnay 2010 Famatina Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Smells much more like Torrontés than Chardonnay. Soapy. Steep at the price. (RH) 12.5%
£7.29 Corney & Barrow

J & F Lurton, Gran Lurton Corte Friulano 2009 Uco Valley 16.5 Drink 2011-2014
Oak comes through well: creamy spicy, vanilla – quite thick on the tongue. Long, smoky finish. Not for the oakophobic. (RH) 13%
£14.29 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Quimera 2008 Mendoza 16+ Drink 2012-2015
Scented, fragrant, vibrant fruit but quite austere and unyielding on the palate. Needs time – a sleeping giant. (RH) 14%
£24.99 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Mirador Malbec 2007 Medrano 17 Drink 2011-2017
Clay vineyard at 2,600 feet above sea level. Blueberries, cherries, loads of purity and length. Has all the character of Malbec without the spoofy overkill. (RH) 14%
£51.99 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2007 Mendoza 16.5+ Drink 2013-2017
Limestone vineyard at 3,100 feet above sea level. More tannic and taut than the Mirador. Fine yet muscular. Little complexity – as of yet? (RH) 14%
£51.99 Corney & Barrow

Dominio de Toyo Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2010 Famatina Valley 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
A bit reductive in a not unattractive way. Light but not watery. Easy drinking, satisfyingly dry. (RH) 12.5%
£7.29 Corney & Barrow

Ruca Malen, Kinien Malbec 2007 Mendoza 16+ Drink 2011-2013
Violets, plums, creamy vanilla oak. Dry tannins, full and powerful, high acid. Nice development – and still more to come, it seems. (RH) 14%
£19.99 Corney & Barrow

AUSTRALIA & SOUTH AFRICA

Heywood Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2010 South Eastern Australia 15 Drink 2011
Neutral, light grass and lime. Decent but undistinguished. (RH) 11.5%
£7.99 Corney & Barrow

Old Vines Wine Cellars Chenin Blanc 2009 Stellenbosch 15 Drink 2011
Dry, a bit cheesy. Ripe enough though rather wishy-washy overall. (RH) 13%
£9.29 Corney & Barrow

Eagle Vale Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2008 Margaret River 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Green pepper, black cherry, smooth and drinkable but with a herbal dominance that is a bit overblown. (RH) 14%
£12.49 Corney & Barrow

Mont du Toit 2003 Wellington 16.5 Drink 2007-2011
Very ripe blackcurrants, dark liquorice, tar and aniseed. Dense, heavy and oaked. (RH) 14%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Nelson Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2003 Paarl 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Ripe blackcurrant, tomato stalk, light body and some chocolate and smoke to finish. Pretty tannic, though finely chiselled. (RH) 13.5%
£13.99 Corney & Barrow

CALIFORNIA & CHILE

**Carmel Road Riesling 2009 Monterey County 16 Drink 2011-2014
Lime, lemongrass plus some unexpected honey on the palate. Dry finish, but then lots of opulent stone fruit which undermines the Riesling-ness. (RH) 13%
£14.39 Corney & Barrow

**Carmel Road Pinot Noir 2009 Monterey County 17 Drink 2011-2014
Luscious red fruit with cordial style concentration. Sweet and fruit-centric, but dry on the finish. Not for Pinot purists, but a good example in the oversized mode. (RH) 14%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Viña Mar, Reserva Pinot Noir 2010 Casablanca Valley 14.5 Drink 2011-2012
Very tame nose. Light, a bit meaningless, not a good buy at the price. Nowhere near as good as their 2008 was. (RH) 14%
£9.99 Corney & Barrow

Rosario Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Central Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Bit of reduction, vibrant blackcurrant juice. Prominent oak but nicely handled. Technical but quaffable. (RH) 13%
£6.99 Corney & Barrow

San Pedro, 1865 Single Vineyard Carmenère 2009 Maule Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Medicinal, syrupy fruit. Floaty, sweet oak – unintegrated. Peppery finish adds a bit of interest. Not bad, just not as premium as it tries to be. (RH) 14.5%
£12.99 Corney & Barrow

 FRENCH WHITE

**Henri Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Vin de Pays du Val de Loire 15 Drink 2011-2012
Grassy, very hard and citric. Sour finish. Hard. (RH) 12.5%
£9.99 Corney & Barrow

André et Edmond Figeat, Les Chaumiennes 2010 Pouilly-Fumé 15.5 Drink 2011-2012
Mineral, smoke, slate – very true. Austere, bitter juniper finish. Initially appealing but seems a bit too bitter to enjoy in quantity. (RH) 13%
£13.79 Corney & Barrow

Ch Grinou, La Combe de Grinou 2009 Bergerac 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
60% Sémillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc. Green pepper, lime, very sharp but not over-zealous acid. Dry, plump, floral. (RH) 12%
£8.29 Corney & Barrow

FRENCH RED

**Bosquet des Papes, Chante le Merle 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 17 Drink 2010-2016
Bronzed colour. Some meat and gravy on the palate, lots of concentration, ultra smooth tannic paste. As warm and inviting as a fireside. (RH) 13.5%
£46.89 Corney & Barrow

**Bourg, Les Graviers 2009 St-Nicolas de Bourgueil 16 Drink 2011-2014
Fragrant, leathery, luxurious. Bit of green leaf for authenticity – bright pink hue, tame tannins, a few sprinkles of dark chocolate. (RH) 12.5%
£12.49 Corney & Barrow

Jean-Pierre Moueix, Corney & Barrow Company Reserve 2005 Bordeaux 15.5 Drink 2008-2011
Light, rather fruitless. Liquorice and a touch of toast to finish, but rather dull. Drink now. (RH) 13%
£11.49 Corney & Barrow

René Rostaing, Cuvée Les Terroirs 2008 Côte Rôtie 17 Drink 2013-2018
in 2008, Rostaing blended the three separate cuvées he usually makes into one wine. Really peppered. Violets, blackberries and seared meat. Youthful – too keen, needs time. Plenty of acid to last. (RH) 13.5%
£34.99 Corney & Barrow

Saissac Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 IGP Pays d’Oc 16 Drink 2011-2015
Subtle black fruit perfume with chocolate, dark spice, melded tannins and a slight bitter twist. VGV (RH) 13%
£7.49 Corney & Barrow

Tardieu Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2008 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 16 Drink 2011-2015
Scented and perfumed on the nose, with a gravelly texture on the palate and plenty of heat on the finish – better integration than their 08 Rasteau. (RH) 14.5%
£39.19 Corney & Barrow

Tardieu Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2008 Rasteau 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
Ripe cherry cake nose. Bit of VA lurking about, and a little spirity too. (RH) 14%
£16.59 Corney & Barrow

 GERMANY

J J Prüm, Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2008 Mosel 16.5 Drink 2011-2021
Slate and steel, tropical lime, fragrant and spicy. Babyfaced, but approachable now. Much less abrasive and therefore much more appealing than the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett. (RH) 9.5%
£25.29 Corney & Barrow

J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Ausese Goldkapsel 2009 Mosel 17.5+ Drink 2014-2029
Only primary now, but the balance and length attests to its longevity. Wonderful honeyed purity. Every adjective you can think of for Riesling is here. Very very long and sweet to finish. (RH) 7.5%
£64.69 Corney & Barrow

J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel 16 Drink 2011-2016
So pungent! Really very extreme – perhaps too sulphurous. I tasted this recently in my MW exam and it perplexed me then too. (RH) 9.5%
£20.19 Corney & Barrow

 ITALY

Il Carretto, Blanco 2010 IGT Sicilia 15 Drink 2011-2012
Almond and marzipan fragrance plus banana and white pepper. Tastes like Fiano plus Grüner Veltliner plus Viognier (turns out it’s Grillo). Bit floral for some, but good enough for the money. (RH) 12%
£6.49 Corney & Barrow

Cecilia Beretta, Masseria Bianca Fiano 2010 IGT Salento 15.5 Drink 2011-2012
Aromatic, rich and viscous. Firm, with a bit of phenolic grip. Bitters to finish. (RH) 14%
£7.99 Corney & Barrow

**Enrico Santini, Campo alla Casa 2009 Bolgheri 15 Drink 2011-2012
Grapefruit, banana, rather sharply acidic. Plus there’s an aftershave type of flavour. Bit of a mish-mash. (RH) 13.5%
£14.99 Corney & Barrow

Biserno, Il Pino di Biserno 2007 IGT Toscana 17 Drink 2011-2016
Blackcurrant, truffle, mushroom, earth. Leaf litter on the palate, wonderful creaminess, tannins are loose but supportive. Fine acid. (RH) 14%
£38.99 Corney & Barrow

Il Carretto 2010 IGT Puglia 16 Drink 2011-2014
Simple, cheery cherry fruit. Very drinkable, soft and balanced with a good savoury dryness and respectable length. GV (RH) 12%
£6.49 Corney & Barrow

Giacomo Conterno, Cascina Francia 2008 Barbera d’Alba 16 Drink 2011-2016
Green leaf, black cherry. Dark, impenetrable. Bit of funk on the palate – seems all a bit overbearing to me. Youthful, for sure, but rather heavily extracted too. (RH) 14.5%
£36.69 Corney & Barrow
 

PORTUGAL

Quinta da Chocapalha, Reserva 2008 Lisboa 17 Drink 2011-2013
Flinty and broad like Meursault – the spitting image! Nicely constructed, long smoky finish. Excellent. (RH) 13%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Wine and Soul, Guru 2008 Douro 16.5+ Drink 2011-2013
Tangerine, flowers, nuts, bitter almonds, very serious and firm. Probably needs a few years yet – but it’s already showing signs of oxidation, so not too long. (RH) 12.5%
£27.49 Corney & Barrow

Wine and Soul, Pintas Character 2007 Douro 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Something funky this way comes. Definite fungal character. Not necessarily unattractive, but too dominant. Very dry and unforgiving. (RH) 14.5%
£26.99 Corney & Barrow

SPAIN

Roqueta, Mas Oliveras Macabeo/Chardonnay 2010 Catalunya 14.5 Drink 2011
Nutty, clinical, full bodied. Dry and textural but crude. (RH) 13%
£7.49 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, Predicador Blanco 2009 Rioja 16 Drink 2011-2014
Lovely generous oak, really custardy and powerful. Very much the modern style – oak über alles. (RH) 13.5%
£23.69 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, Predicador 2007 Rioja 16+ Drink 2012-2017
Very closed nose. Better brightness on the palate, but all a bit serious. Needs food, time or both! (RH) 14%
£24.29 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, La Cueva del Contador 2007 Rioja 16.5+ Drink 2013-2023
Dry, quite light bodied. Substantial tannins, but very drinkable. Dry, bold – perhaps a bit too flashy and over-exuberant. (RH) 14%

Visit www.corneyandbarrow.com or call 020 7265 2430 to buy these wines.

Further Options

How to launch a wine whose reputation as the Ultimate Insiders Champagne demands both discretion and celebration… a fun challenge for any Marketing Manager. Our answer – serve it with fish & chips. The idea came to Rebecca – our buyer for Salon – one Sunday night when returning home, late and laden with warm fish and chips. The only bottle in the fridge was, naturally (!), a bottle of Salon ’97 and the combination of the two turned out to be so successful, we felt compelled to spread the message.

We kicked off the press launch with Delamotte Blanc de Blancs NV- which is, for me, the best value of the range. Champagne Delamotte (sister house of Salon) is all about Chardonnay and this Blanc de Blancs benefits from the unparalleled Chardonnay know-how of the Salon team.  It is currently showing brilliantly – rich and open but with the trademark Delamotte elegance that I, for one, love in Champagne.

Didier Depond, President of the two Houses, then launched the stunning Salon ’99. It is the 37th vintage to be released and the last of the millennium. Didier described the wine as his ‘new baby’ and is essence, that is exactly what it is – a baby. This is hard to believe, knowing that it has 12 years of ageing already under its belt, but the wine is still remarkably closed and only starts to show its great power after a good while in the glass. The incredible potential is Salon’s greatest asset, which is thanks to its 100% Chardonnay content. No other Champagne spends so long in bottle before being disgorged and released onto the market and very few can confidently be given a drinking window of ‘now until 2050, or 2060 for magnums.’ I will look forward to pulling out a bottle for my 70th birthday. Scary thought.

As for the match with Fish & Chips – the concept of bubbles with batter is, indisputably, a winner. The Salon did perform well but we felt that its immaturity (and, arguably, superiority) lost out to the ‘blossoming’ Delamotte in this round – the latter’s current richness and more ‘bubbly’ nature was the deciding factor. (Interestingly, the singular stream of super-fine bubbles in the Salon all but disappeared by the end of lunch, re-inforcing the idea that it is more a fine wine than an archetypal champagne.)  We went straight from our Fish ‘n’ Chip shop to Berkeley Square for the private customer launch in the effortlessly cool Halycon gallery . The Salon was flowing freely, matched with carefully selected canapés – such a treat when you consider how few bottles are made. I overheard one, wine-passionate customer saying it was the best champagne to ever have crossed his lips.  I had to agree. 

The next opportunity to taste it will be on 16th June at our annual tasting.  We strongly recommend coming along… if just for a chance to taste this amazing and amazingly rare wine.

Question: Have you tried Champagne (or any fizz) with Fish & Chips, and if so, how did you rate it?

Click here to read Decanter’s Producer Profile about Champagne Salon  (Decanter Magazine, April 2011)

Further Options

Last Thursday was the turn of 50 lucky, private customers, who came to the Groucho Club in Soho for a celebration dinner. Brut NV bubbles kicked off the evening with a quick word from Adam and Didier about the relationship between Corney & Barrow and Champagne Delamotte and Salon; we have been lucky enough to be exclusive agents for Delamotte for 15 years (and Salon for almost 10.)

Le Mesnil-sur-Oger should always be said in the same breath as Delamotte, Adam then stressed, referring to the most prestigious of villages in the Côte des Blancs, where both Delamotte (and Salon) are based. This unique location means that the grapes used in Delamotte’s blanc de blancs non-vintage and vintage cuvées are 100% Grand Cru – a little known point of distinction for Delamotte.

We matched Delamotte Blanc de Blancs NV with potted crayfish; this style is so quintessentially Delamotte, at once soft and delicate but precise, its minerality cutting through the richness of the starter.
The main course was a sea bass with roasted fennel, paired with the Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 1999, the current vintage release from Delamotte. This wine is showing beautifully now, having emerged from its chrysalis in the last year. Its white blossom aromatics, ripe citrus flavours and incisive minerality proved an excellent match to this dish, and demonstrated yet again how well Champagnes can partner food. Our next glass was Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 1990, a special and rare treat for Corney & Barrow customers as there are no further stocks available for purchase; Didier very generously provided these bottles from Delamotte’s precious library archive, for the 250th dinner. Guests were not disappointed; the 1990 is the perfect evolution of the 1999, showing more complex aromas yet retaining its freshness and flavours of stone fruit and white flowers. The wine blossomed in the glass, developing notes of baking bread, brioche and mushrooms. The palate was perfectly balanced showing great finesse, power and elegance.

A birthday isn’t a birthday without a cake! We had Delamotte’s 250th anniversary cake hand made to a special recipe containing ground almonds and topped with delicate wild berries, the perfect match for a glass of Delamotte’s elegant saignée Rosé with its delicate acidity and fresh raspberry and cranberry notes.

Salon hits the big 100 next year, so more celebrations in store. Watch this space…

Further Options

Further Options

It’s been a hell of a week.

Last Friday saw the release of Domaine Leflaive 2008 and the vast majority sold that day which made for quite a buzz around the office as the phones rang and the emails flew (is that the right terminology?). Fraser then did the Sloane club Rhone dinner in the evening which went well by all accounts. I won’t bore you with the weekend details other than the fact that Twist Magic winning at Sandown finally got by betting back on track.

Before I knew it Monday was on us and there was still some Domaine Leflaive business to do which was good but telling customers that many of the wines had all gone is never easy or enjoyable. There was a hint that the new website (which you will have seen if you’re reading this!) would go live over night………..but no there was a slight integration (hate that word!) niggle and another 24 hours would be needed.

Tuesday was an extraordinary day – Adam and I both manned the C&B Table at the first Royal Warrant Holders Christmas Fair which was held in the Ballroom of Buckingham Palace for 1000 members of the Royal Household and their guests. A great day meeting some fascinating people including the Queen, not something you can say everyday. Once out of the Palace, no blackberry/mobile action in there, I saw that the site was minutes from go live. The amount of work has been mind blowing from tasting notes to pricing to functionality…….

Wednesday, quick interview first thing…always like to see and stay in touch with people who write in and may be of interest in the future…after that it was looking at the selection of wines for the post Christmas Bin-end, working on a few teething issues on the web (it needs a period of “running in” so the speed should improve!) and setting the offer Calendar for next year. Exciting reports of a spectacular tasting at Clos de Tart have a started to emerge, it looked at vintages spanning an amazing 116years, I have attached these below….they reinforce what I feel, which is that the estate is a stunning terroir and now under the control of Sylvain Pitiot is going from strength to strength…very exciting times for the estate (see Burgundy Day 5 for the Clos de Tart 08′s tasting notes).

http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/a20091208.html

http://blog.cavesa.ch/index.php/2009/11/21/191523-bourgogne-passe-present-fabuleux-clos-de-tart

http://www.academiedesvinsanciens.org/index.php?archives/2131-English.html&serendipity%5Blang_selected%5D=en

With the first full day of the web done it was time for a drink!

Thursday dawned and it was time to re-focus on wines for Christmas and all the offers we have out at the moment….almost too many toys to play with. Joined the Board for a drink at lunch time, Flor de Pingus ’99 showing brilliantly and ready from now onwards, Corton-Charlemagne 2003 from Bonneau du Martray which is opulent but not too 03ish and to start (not sure why I’ve done the wines backwards) Delamotte Blanc de Blancs NV which, loyalties aside, I love.

And so to Friday….one of those frustrating start everything, finish nothing days, but given that this time in two weeks I’ll have a glass of something fizzy in my hand it can’t be too bad.

Over time I will introduce various aspects of C&B life and the characters here but we have to lead off with Darth!! Guess who got this as their Secret Santa last year?

Right time to cycle home!

Further Options

I felt the wines were better than I expected. My picks of the reds were Domaine de Chevalier, Gazin, La Lagune and Leoville Poyferre.

The sweet whites were stunning as was expected. The level of sweetness really varying though from intense (de Fargues) to balanced and more elegant (La Tour Blanche). My overall impression was of genuine wines that are, sadly, over priced compared to the cheaper and generally better 2006’s & 2008’s.

I looked on UGC as a warm up for a big fine wine evening the following night chez Hargrove…..format was very relaxed – Darts and Backgammon to go with the wine (all served blind).

To get things going – Delamotte NV in magnum with 3 years or more bottle age – delicious, not over serious just great drinking

Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 2003, Raveneau – corked…gutted especially as I love Chablis and this would only have been my second Raveneau.

Then followed 4 different 2002 Germans with the scallops and Chorizo:

Urzinger Wurzgarten Spatlese, Christoffel – elegant and delicious now and the guys were all quite close with guesses most getting Spatlese and vintages between 01 & 03.

Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett, Fritz Haag – deliciously Mosel in character and my favorite but interestingly not as good as the 2001 I had recently, good producer one I’ll watch, guesses good again.

Keseler Nieschien Spatlese, Karlsmuhle – A little lacking in character and not that exiting but a the price £10ish a bargain all the same.

Hocheimer Riechstel Kabinett, Kunstler – A curve ball of a wine. Everyone baring one person though it was Auslese, alcohol was only 7.5%, colour dark and most guesses were in the 90’s (‘93-‘00). Weird!

With Leg of Lamb and then cheese we assaulted the reds:

Barolo Brunate 1970, Macarani – Wine of the night by common consensus – seriously complex and tasting younger than 39 years of age, I got it from a mate in the trade who had tasted it recently and enjoyed it. Makes me more sure that Nebbiolo I a grape I need to buy more of. A real highlight!

Five left bank 1996’s – JM realised early it was a 1996 Horizontal so just looked smug!

Branaire Ducru – Fine but just not exciting, proper claret good fruit and structure but no more
Calon Segur – Slightly tighter and with away to go, nice
Pontet Canet -
Leoville Poyferre – Showy and in all honesty a bit of a one glass wonder…a little over fruited
Cos d’Estournel – Very classy and TB spotted in immediately, a lovely wine that is great now but has a long, long future

Overall I think we were a bit too critical of these wines. 13 year old clarets from a good vintage, they were structured and if there was a fault it was that they lacked charm (a little like).

With a couple of tarts (Apple and Plum!!):

Rieussec 1975 – 2bts – My birth year and the first 1975 Sauternes I have had. Both bottles were good and very similar (not always the case) lovely texture and superb with the tarts and remnants of cheese. Very honeyed and complex but with acidity. I hadn’t planned to have two bottles but it was worth it!

By the time the glasses were cleaned it was 3am!! A great night.

Further Options

as ever were terrific.

Further Options