Shortly afterwards Adam and I dashed Katharina off for a, supposedly quick, lunch at the excellent Gauthier in Soho with two customers. We were very well looked after and after a bottle of Champagne we had two wines to have with the food. We almost all had the same food as Katharina – Risotto followed by salmon – as we all wanted to see how the wines and food worked.

First up was the Bernkasteler Badstube Spätlese 2009 which was delicious, precise, full fruited, primary of course but in great form, it worked well with the rich Risotto. During lunch we covered all sorts of issues, two I was keen to ask about were, decanting and ripeness levels. Decanting it has appeared to me does the wines a lot of good and Katharina agreed that when possible it does and that at the estate they will decant if there is time, the wines Katharina also likes to serve very cool so they can evolve in glass. On the ripeness levels I asked why it might be that in general I find my taste in Riesling is towards the Kabinett and Spätlese end of things? Katharina said that in younger wines that made perfect sense but that as I try older Auslese I would realise that there is so much intensity to the Auslese and a little less sweetness as they get older…I must try more older Auslese then (can`t wait…finding them is the problem!)  As the dinner later showed the vintage has a lot to do with it too.

Next wine was the estates very top “normal” production wine (there are auction wines but that is another topic) and this was another 2009, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldcapsule. The Goldcapsule refers to a tiny production of grapes selected in the vineyard for their sublime quality. The intensity of the fruit, soft white and tropical is staggering given the low alcohol (7% ish). These are amongst the world’s let alone Germanys most attractive, long-lived and extraordinary wines. The amount of ripe fruit means that the “sweetness” is so natural that it goes brilliantly with the food, the Salmon, was delicious but all the better still for the wine. With dinner to follow (see below) we didn’t extend lunch much further.

And to dinner, at the world renowned Nobu (Old park Lane), Katharina despite being incredibly well travelled had not been before and we were all very excited. The room of 60 people were in for treat.
 
As an aperitif we had 2010 Kabinett, there was only one Kabinett in 2010 as the year was more biased towards the richer styles. This worked really well, it is clean, fresh and primary but very mouth-watering. The meal itself started, after an introduction from Oliver Hartley and an overview of the wines from Katharina, with assorted Sushi and Sea bass Tiradito with these two we had two contrasting Kabinetts  – 2009 Bernkasteler Badstube and 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr – these two vineyards are about 3 km apart and have differing styes. The vintages two are very different, 2009 more rich, rounded and extravert, the 2008 more classical and taut, this showed in the wines with the Bernkasteler after being a little closed opening up to more rounded fullness. The Wehlener by contrast was racier and had extreme poise.   The combinations were great with clean flavours in the sushi and a little spice from the Tiradito going especially well with the 2008.

Katharina next spoke about the 3 upcoming Spätlese – Bernkasteler Badstube 2007, Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2007 then Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2003 which we had with Lobster Salad with spicy lemon dressing, Rock shrimp tempura with creamy Spice sauce, Black Cod with Miso. 2007 is a very classical vintage with poise elegance grace and balance, similar in many way to the most recent release 2010. 2003 by contrast but in keeping with the rest of Europe was a freak year of low rainfall and very high temperatures. The 2003′s Katharina feels will age very well (as the 1976′s have for a similar reason) as there is structure and acidity it is just not apparent because of the opulent fruit. This trio were brilliant. To my mind the Badstube had rich texture on the palate was a touch closed and reductive on the nose, no bad thing, may be not perfect yet, the Wehlener was one of my wines of the night, rich yet mellow, highly strung but inviting, very classy and delicious especially with the tempura, a match made in heaven. The 2003 I think surprised everyone with its balance- it was an extrovert but not an outlandish one and great with the Miso Black Cod.

Katharina was back on her feet again, no rest here, for the final three wines.  The first two – 2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese & 1998 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese were served with Beef Kushiyaki then the 2003 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldcapsule was served with Exotic Fruits. The 2004 vintage was more akin to 2007 and 2010 in the way it was poised, balanced and delicate. I thought the 2004 was a true star, light colour and just opening out, really beautiful. The 1998 was richer and fuller with a bit of development as you’d expect. The match was a tricky one and whilst they went well, I preferred both wines after the food more than with – just one of those things. The Goldcapsule 2003 was some finish though, very expressive but you could see there are years and years of development and intrigue to come, not one to drink too early despite how wonderful it is now.

Adam made a closing speech and thanked Katharina for her insights and for the wines…this is a young relationship for C&B – we first bought in 2008, but one that everyone left delighted about! A thank you to Nobu too who looked after us very well.

The day of 11 Rieslings was over for me…a real shame, as such great memories. I loved Prüm wines before the visit but do so even more now.

Visit our website to view all available wines from Joh Jos Prum

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(English Translation Below)

有650多年歷史的Schloss Schönborn是由一個家族私人擁有的德國葡萄酒莊園。現在雖有多間傳統酒莊都是由各大百貨經營，但Schloss Schönborn經過18代守業至今，實在難得。

我們於10月17日在一星Michelin餐廳 – 桃花源舉辦Schloss Schönborn酒宴，並邀請了Herr Marcel Von den Benken到香港參與是次晚宴。餐廳雖沒華麗的裝飾，但客人可於舒適的環境享受佳餚美酒。

Rheingau Riesling QbA, Schloss Schönborn 2009作為第一隻佳釀展開了晚宴的序幕。 清新、有活力、非常充足的白色的果性。

以Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Schönborn 2003 和 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spatlese，Schloss Schönborn 2007配上三小碟的手拍青瓜、醬油滷豆腐和脆皮燒腩仔。前者幹身、清爽、很多礦物氣息及少許辛辣香料。後者是單一果園Marcobrunn，果性非常，而有足夠的酸來平衡酒質，甜美悠揚。

主菜方面，以玻璃明蝦球、椒鹽炸原隻鮮蟹鉗及西芹炒海青斑球等海鮮為主，遂以4種Riesling配襯。Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spatlese, Schloss Schönborn 2008 – medium intensity、不太重身、少甜、還有點dry-finish；Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spatlese Lothar Franz Schloss Schonborn 2001 – 非常complex、黃梅、濃，還有汽油礦物的味道，以致由基本至陳年複雜變化的味道；Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Schloss Schonborn 2006 – 濃郁圓潤、淡黃色、少許礦物和乾果；Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Auslese, Schloss Schönborn 1989 – 金黃色、成熟、乾果、咸檸檬、淡焦糖及以蜜糖作完結。

最後不可缺少的當然是甜品芒果布甸，以甜度較濃的Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Beerenauslese Schloss Schönborn 1995 花香，開放，有點辛辣，礦物和幹杏，活潑，充滿活力和Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Schloss Schönborn 2003 豐富的熱帶水果 (芒果和菠蘿) 、焦糖，清爽的口感，令人驚嘆的平衡。

Herr Marcel Von den Benken讓我們知道2010年份是多麼難得和困難，2010的TBA僅釀約400瓶。好的葡萄酒，好的食物，我們享受著一個美好的夜晚。

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English Translation:

Schloss Schönborn is a privately-owned German wine estate with 650 years of history. Nowadays, many traditional wineries are operated by major companies. It is rare to have a winery running the business for 18 generations like Schloss Schönborn.

The Schloss Schönborn tasting dinner was held on October 17th in a One Michelin Star restaurant – Tim’s Kitchen. We were both honoured and excited to have Mr. Marcel von den Benken in Hong Kong to host this exclusive dinner. Even though the event was in a restaurant with simple decoration, the guests enjoyed delicious food and wine in a fun and comfortable environment.  The first wine of the evening was Rheingau Riesling QbA, Schloss Schönborn 2009. It’s fresh, dynamic, and abundant in stone fruits.

Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Schönborn 2003 and Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spatlese, Schloss Schönborn 2007 were tasted next with the starters: Chilled Tossed Cucumber, Chiu Chow Soya Bean Curd, Frog’s legs and Roasted Crispy Baby Pork Belly.  The Kabinett is dry, crisp, and minerally with a hint of spice.  The Spatlese is from a single vineyard Marcobrunn, with lots of fruit character, good acid balance, sweet and long finish.

We then chose 4 Riesling wines to be served with the seafood main courses (Crystal King Prawn, Deep-fried Whole Fresh Crab Claw with Peppercorn Salt and Sautéed Fresh Sliced Garoupa Fillet with Celery).  Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spatlese, Schloss Schönborn 2008 has a medium intensity, it’s not too heavy, less sweetness and with a dry finish; Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spatlese Lothar Franz Schloss Schönborn 2001 gives a very complex, concentrated taste, like apricot with mineral tones, resulting in a combination of primary and tertiary character; Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Schloss Schönborn 2006 has a light golden yellow outlook, rich mellow, slightly mineral with a touch of dried fruits; Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Auslese, Schloss Schönborn 1989 is golden yellow, and tastes like ripe pineapple, light caramel and honey. Delicious!

The choice for dessert was mango pudding, accompanied with Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese. Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Beerenauslese Schloss Schönborn 1995 gives floral, open, lively energetic, mineral and dried apricot flavour with a hint of spice. Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Schloss Schönborn 2003 provides a fresh amazing balance of rich tropical fruits (mango and pineapple) with a hint of caramel.

Mr. Marcel Von den Benken told us how difficult and rare it is to obtain 2010 vintage, with only about 400 bottles of TBA produced, so we were counting ourselves very lucky.  The combination of great wine and food made for a fabulous evening.

Browse available Schloss Schönborn wines on our website.

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The top 10 at Corney & Barrow

 18 Aug 2011 by Richard Hemming, JancisRobinson.com

Corney & Barrow very kindly offered subscribers to this site some free tickets to their summer tasting in June. They didn’t come without a catch, however, since I asked the lucky few to rank and score their top 10 wines of the tasting. So, many thanks to Tim Jackson, Mark Chenhall, Andy MacFaul, Leigh Johnson and Nick Davidson for sharing their thoughts with us.

It was an informal experiment that nonetheless yielded strong results. All three of the J J Prüm Rieslings that were on show appear in our aggregate top 10. As Mark commented, ‘they are just so good, and their combination of fruit, acidity and precise minerality make for a compelling mouthful of wine’.

The Achaval Ferrer wines were all highly thought of too, with Finca Bella Vista at number 2 in the charts (and Finca Mirador at number 11) – although Tim comments that they are ‘all well made, clearly, but in an overly hedonistic alcoholic fashion that Argentina doesn’t need to own’.

The Romeo Rioja at number 4 also split opinion, with several of us noting its relentlessly modern and powerful style – although all agreeing it is impressive. There was general admiration for the Delamotte champagnes too, with the newly released Blanc de Blancs 2002 the overall preference.

Looking at the list as a whole, it has a pleasingly catholic range of origin and style – a credit to to Corney & Barrow’s buying team. It also illustrates reassuringly varied taste from our five volunteers. It doesn’t feature much in the way of bargains, however, and indeed the whole portfolio is stoutly priced.

Thanks again to Tim, Mark, Andy, Leigh, Nick and all at Corney & Barrow for their help.

The aggregate top 10, compiled from the rankings from all six of us, is as follows:

1. J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2009 Mosel
2 .Achaval Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2007 Mendoza
3. Biserno, Il Pino di Biserno 2007 IGT Toscana
4. Benjamin Romeo, La Cueva del Contador 2007 Rioja
5. René Rostaing, Cuvée Les Terroirs 2008 Côte Rôtie
6. J J Prüm, Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2008 Mosel
7. Giacomo Conterno, Cascia Francia 2008 Barbera d’Alba
8. J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel
9. Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 Champagne
10. Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa Valley

My full notes follow below, ordered by style and country or region. Within each section they are grouped by colour and then listed alphabetically by producer (sur)name.

 
CHAMPAGNE

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 Champagne 16.5 Drink 2011-2014
Cream cheese on the nose, then toast on the palate. Light bodied, ephemeral, perhaps missing a bit of vim, but a classy number nonetheless. (RH) 12%
£39.99 Corney & Barrow

ROSÉ

Olivier Leflaive, Cuvée Margoton Rosé 2009 Bourgogne 15 Drink 2010-2011
Very light. Not sure it tastes of anything really. (RH) 12.5%
£10.99 Corney & Barrow

Ch Léoube, Le Secret de Léoube Rosé 2010 Côtes de Provence 16.5 Drink 2011-2012
Made by Jean-Jaques Ott, who sold his eponymous winery to Louis Roederer in 2000. It has all the mineral quality and texture of the best Provence rosé but with more concentration, fullness and body than most. (RH) 13%
£19.99 Corney & Barrow

Ch Léoube, Rosé 2010 Côtes de Provence 16 Drink 2011-2012
Gentle, definite mineral scent. Peachy and floral. Very slight but very good at what it does. (RH) 12.5%
£13.99 Corney & Barrow

Tissier, Rosé 2010 Sancerre 16 Drink 2011-2012
Leafy, good level of red cherry and lemon sherbet flavour. Dry, refreshing. (RH) 12.5%
£14.99 Corney & Barrow

ARGENTINA

Dominio de Toyo Torrontés/Chardonnay 2010 Famatina Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Smells much more like Torrontés than Chardonnay. Soapy. Steep at the price. (RH) 12.5%
£7.29 Corney & Barrow

J & F Lurton, Gran Lurton Corte Friulano 2009 Uco Valley 16.5 Drink 2011-2014
Oak comes through well: creamy spicy, vanilla – quite thick on the tongue. Long, smoky finish. Not for the oakophobic. (RH) 13%
£14.29 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Quimera 2008 Mendoza 16+ Drink 2012-2015
Scented, fragrant, vibrant fruit but quite austere and unyielding on the palate. Needs time – a sleeping giant. (RH) 14%
£24.99 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Mirador Malbec 2007 Medrano 17 Drink 2011-2017
Clay vineyard at 2,600 feet above sea level. Blueberries, cherries, loads of purity and length. Has all the character of Malbec without the spoofy overkill. (RH) 14%
£51.99 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2007 Mendoza 16.5+ Drink 2013-2017
Limestone vineyard at 3,100 feet above sea level. More tannic and taut than the Mirador. Fine yet muscular. Little complexity – as of yet? (RH) 14%
£51.99 Corney & Barrow

Dominio de Toyo Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2010 Famatina Valley 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
A bit reductive in a not unattractive way. Light but not watery. Easy drinking, satisfyingly dry. (RH) 12.5%
£7.29 Corney & Barrow

Ruca Malen, Kinien Malbec 2007 Mendoza 16+ Drink 2011-2013
Violets, plums, creamy vanilla oak. Dry tannins, full and powerful, high acid. Nice development – and still more to come, it seems. (RH) 14%
£19.99 Corney & Barrow

AUSTRALIA & SOUTH AFRICA

Heywood Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2010 South Eastern Australia 15 Drink 2011
Neutral, light grass and lime. Decent but undistinguished. (RH) 11.5%
£7.99 Corney & Barrow

Old Vines Wine Cellars Chenin Blanc 2009 Stellenbosch 15 Drink 2011
Dry, a bit cheesy. Ripe enough though rather wishy-washy overall. (RH) 13%
£9.29 Corney & Barrow

Eagle Vale Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2008 Margaret River 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Green pepper, black cherry, smooth and drinkable but with a herbal dominance that is a bit overblown. (RH) 14%
£12.49 Corney & Barrow

Mont du Toit 2003 Wellington 16.5 Drink 2007-2011
Very ripe blackcurrants, dark liquorice, tar and aniseed. Dense, heavy and oaked. (RH) 14%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Nelson Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2003 Paarl 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Ripe blackcurrant, tomato stalk, light body and some chocolate and smoke to finish. Pretty tannic, though finely chiselled. (RH) 13.5%
£13.99 Corney & Barrow

CALIFORNIA & CHILE

**Carmel Road Riesling 2009 Monterey County 16 Drink 2011-2014
Lime, lemongrass plus some unexpected honey on the palate. Dry finish, but then lots of opulent stone fruit which undermines the Riesling-ness. (RH) 13%
£14.39 Corney & Barrow

**Carmel Road Pinot Noir 2009 Monterey County 17 Drink 2011-2014
Luscious red fruit with cordial style concentration. Sweet and fruit-centric, but dry on the finish. Not for Pinot purists, but a good example in the oversized mode. (RH) 14%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Viña Mar, Reserva Pinot Noir 2010 Casablanca Valley 14.5 Drink 2011-2012
Very tame nose. Light, a bit meaningless, not a good buy at the price. Nowhere near as good as their 2008 was. (RH) 14%
£9.99 Corney & Barrow

Rosario Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Central Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Bit of reduction, vibrant blackcurrant juice. Prominent oak but nicely handled. Technical but quaffable. (RH) 13%
£6.99 Corney & Barrow

San Pedro, 1865 Single Vineyard Carmenère 2009 Maule Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Medicinal, syrupy fruit. Floaty, sweet oak – unintegrated. Peppery finish adds a bit of interest. Not bad, just not as premium as it tries to be. (RH) 14.5%
£12.99 Corney & Barrow

 FRENCH WHITE

**Henri Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Vin de Pays du Val de Loire 15 Drink 2011-2012
Grassy, very hard and citric. Sour finish. Hard. (RH) 12.5%
£9.99 Corney & Barrow

André et Edmond Figeat, Les Chaumiennes 2010 Pouilly-Fumé 15.5 Drink 2011-2012
Mineral, smoke, slate – very true. Austere, bitter juniper finish. Initially appealing but seems a bit too bitter to enjoy in quantity. (RH) 13%
£13.79 Corney & Barrow

Ch Grinou, La Combe de Grinou 2009 Bergerac 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
60% Sémillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc. Green pepper, lime, very sharp but not over-zealous acid. Dry, plump, floral. (RH) 12%
£8.29 Corney & Barrow

FRENCH RED

**Bosquet des Papes, Chante le Merle 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 17 Drink 2010-2016
Bronzed colour. Some meat and gravy on the palate, lots of concentration, ultra smooth tannic paste. As warm and inviting as a fireside. (RH) 13.5%
£46.89 Corney & Barrow

**Bourg, Les Graviers 2009 St-Nicolas de Bourgueil 16 Drink 2011-2014
Fragrant, leathery, luxurious. Bit of green leaf for authenticity – bright pink hue, tame tannins, a few sprinkles of dark chocolate. (RH) 12.5%
£12.49 Corney & Barrow

Jean-Pierre Moueix, Corney & Barrow Company Reserve 2005 Bordeaux 15.5 Drink 2008-2011
Light, rather fruitless. Liquorice and a touch of toast to finish, but rather dull. Drink now. (RH) 13%
£11.49 Corney & Barrow

René Rostaing, Cuvée Les Terroirs 2008 Côte Rôtie 17 Drink 2013-2018
in 2008, Rostaing blended the three separate cuvées he usually makes into one wine. Really peppered. Violets, blackberries and seared meat. Youthful – too keen, needs time. Plenty of acid to last. (RH) 13.5%
£34.99 Corney & Barrow

Saissac Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 IGP Pays d’Oc 16 Drink 2011-2015
Subtle black fruit perfume with chocolate, dark spice, melded tannins and a slight bitter twist. VGV (RH) 13%
£7.49 Corney & Barrow

Tardieu Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2008 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 16 Drink 2011-2015
Scented and perfumed on the nose, with a gravelly texture on the palate and plenty of heat on the finish – better integration than their 08 Rasteau. (RH) 14.5%
£39.19 Corney & Barrow

Tardieu Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2008 Rasteau 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
Ripe cherry cake nose. Bit of VA lurking about, and a little spirity too. (RH) 14%
£16.59 Corney & Barrow

 GERMANY

J J Prüm, Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2008 Mosel 16.5 Drink 2011-2021
Slate and steel, tropical lime, fragrant and spicy. Babyfaced, but approachable now. Much less abrasive and therefore much more appealing than the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett. (RH) 9.5%
£25.29 Corney & Barrow

J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Ausese Goldkapsel 2009 Mosel 17.5+ Drink 2014-2029
Only primary now, but the balance and length attests to its longevity. Wonderful honeyed purity. Every adjective you can think of for Riesling is here. Very very long and sweet to finish. (RH) 7.5%
£64.69 Corney & Barrow

J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel 16 Drink 2011-2016
So pungent! Really very extreme – perhaps too sulphurous. I tasted this recently in my MW exam and it perplexed me then too. (RH) 9.5%
£20.19 Corney & Barrow

 ITALY

Il Carretto, Blanco 2010 IGT Sicilia 15 Drink 2011-2012
Almond and marzipan fragrance plus banana and white pepper. Tastes like Fiano plus Grüner Veltliner plus Viognier (turns out it’s Grillo). Bit floral for some, but good enough for the money. (RH) 12%
£6.49 Corney & Barrow

Cecilia Beretta, Masseria Bianca Fiano 2010 IGT Salento 15.5 Drink 2011-2012
Aromatic, rich and viscous. Firm, with a bit of phenolic grip. Bitters to finish. (RH) 14%
£7.99 Corney & Barrow

**Enrico Santini, Campo alla Casa 2009 Bolgheri 15 Drink 2011-2012
Grapefruit, banana, rather sharply acidic. Plus there’s an aftershave type of flavour. Bit of a mish-mash. (RH) 13.5%
£14.99 Corney & Barrow

Biserno, Il Pino di Biserno 2007 IGT Toscana 17 Drink 2011-2016
Blackcurrant, truffle, mushroom, earth. Leaf litter on the palate, wonderful creaminess, tannins are loose but supportive. Fine acid. (RH) 14%
£38.99 Corney & Barrow

Il Carretto 2010 IGT Puglia 16 Drink 2011-2014
Simple, cheery cherry fruit. Very drinkable, soft and balanced with a good savoury dryness and respectable length. GV (RH) 12%
£6.49 Corney & Barrow

Giacomo Conterno, Cascina Francia 2008 Barbera d’Alba 16 Drink 2011-2016
Green leaf, black cherry. Dark, impenetrable. Bit of funk on the palate – seems all a bit overbearing to me. Youthful, for sure, but rather heavily extracted too. (RH) 14.5%
£36.69 Corney & Barrow
 

PORTUGAL

Quinta da Chocapalha, Reserva 2008 Lisboa 17 Drink 2011-2013
Flinty and broad like Meursault – the spitting image! Nicely constructed, long smoky finish. Excellent. (RH) 13%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Wine and Soul, Guru 2008 Douro 16.5+ Drink 2011-2013
Tangerine, flowers, nuts, bitter almonds, very serious and firm. Probably needs a few years yet – but it’s already showing signs of oxidation, so not too long. (RH) 12.5%
£27.49 Corney & Barrow

Wine and Soul, Pintas Character 2007 Douro 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Something funky this way comes. Definite fungal character. Not necessarily unattractive, but too dominant. Very dry and unforgiving. (RH) 14.5%
£26.99 Corney & Barrow

SPAIN

Roqueta, Mas Oliveras Macabeo/Chardonnay 2010 Catalunya 14.5 Drink 2011
Nutty, clinical, full bodied. Dry and textural but crude. (RH) 13%
£7.49 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, Predicador Blanco 2009 Rioja 16 Drink 2011-2014
Lovely generous oak, really custardy and powerful. Very much the modern style – oak über alles. (RH) 13.5%
£23.69 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, Predicador 2007 Rioja 16+ Drink 2012-2017
Very closed nose. Better brightness on the palate, but all a bit serious. Needs food, time or both! (RH) 14%
£24.29 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, La Cueva del Contador 2007 Rioja 16.5+ Drink 2013-2023
Dry, quite light bodied. Substantial tannins, but very drinkable. Dry, bold – perhaps a bit too flashy and over-exuberant. (RH) 14%

Visit www.corneyandbarrow.com or call 020 7265 2430 to buy these wines.

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As well as the rafts of 2008 we also made an effort to show some older vintages of wines that we have just shipped amongst the whites (pictured) that we showed were some Matrot wines from 2004 & 2006 that arrived last month along with a few Olivier Leflaive’s and the Macon Verze 2007 from Domaines Leflaive. The reds were new arrivals from Varoilles & Arlot. Both tables seemed to go down really well. Arlot and Varoilles both made very good wines in the four star vintage of 2001 which I like very much when we tasted at the Domaines in November and Arlot also showed some wines from the tricky 2004 vintage in which they shone with there finesse orientated style.

It was great to have so many producers on hand to show their wines and our thanks go, in no particular order, to:

Vincent Dampt
Nicolas and Florence Rossignol-Trapet
Gilbert and Delphine Hammel of Domaine de Varoilles
Francois and Miriam Labet of Ch de la Tour and Domaine Pierre Labet
Olivier Leriche of Domaine De L’Arlot
Guillaume d’Angerville
Olivier and Marc-Emmanuel Cyrot
Marion Javillier
Henri Darnat
Thierry, Pascale and Elisa Matrot
Pierre de Benoist of A&P de Villaine

The tasting only promises to get bigger and better each year. Next stop the very exciting 2009 launch next January.

One other point of note was that for the second year we showed our allocation of the immaculate JJ Prum wines. These are hard to taste in their youth as they are reductive (sulphurous) on the nose, this can to a degree be conquered at this early stage by double decanting which we did in the morning of the tasting. The nose takes 3-4years to fully settle but the palate is stunning from the off. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr wines were particularly superb….to be released for sale soon!! For those who still hadn’t fallen to palate fatigue the Trapet wines form Alsace where there to be tasted too.

The Beefeater on duty promptly cleared the room as everyone has to be out of the tower by 9.30 for the Ceremony of the Keys (the Longest continuously running Ceremony of its type in the world I’m informed). A few of us stayed behind to help clear up, once the job was done we were delighted to find a substantial chunk of Taleggio which we washed down with some opened samples! Then it was upto our Jewry Street Winebar for a drink and some food with the producers….. a long but massively worthwhile day….

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I felt the wines were better than I expected. My picks of the reds were Domaine de Chevalier, Gazin, La Lagune and Leoville Poyferre.

The sweet whites were stunning as was expected. The level of sweetness really varying though from intense (de Fargues) to balanced and more elegant (La Tour Blanche). My overall impression was of genuine wines that are, sadly, over priced compared to the cheaper and generally better 2006’s & 2008’s.

I looked on UGC as a warm up for a big fine wine evening the following night chez Hargrove…..format was very relaxed – Darts and Backgammon to go with the wine (all served blind).

To get things going – Delamotte NV in magnum with 3 years or more bottle age – delicious, not over serious just great drinking

Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 2003, Raveneau – corked…gutted especially as I love Chablis and this would only have been my second Raveneau.

Then followed 4 different 2002 Germans with the scallops and Chorizo:

Urzinger Wurzgarten Spatlese, Christoffel – elegant and delicious now and the guys were all quite close with guesses most getting Spatlese and vintages between 01 & 03.

Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett, Fritz Haag – deliciously Mosel in character and my favorite but interestingly not as good as the 2001 I had recently, good producer one I’ll watch, guesses good again.

Keseler Nieschien Spatlese, Karlsmuhle – A little lacking in character and not that exiting but a the price £10ish a bargain all the same.

Hocheimer Riechstel Kabinett, Kunstler – A curve ball of a wine. Everyone baring one person though it was Auslese, alcohol was only 7.5%, colour dark and most guesses were in the 90’s (‘93-‘00). Weird!

With Leg of Lamb and then cheese we assaulted the reds:

Barolo Brunate 1970, Macarani – Wine of the night by common consensus – seriously complex and tasting younger than 39 years of age, I got it from a mate in the trade who had tasted it recently and enjoyed it. Makes me more sure that Nebbiolo I a grape I need to buy more of. A real highlight!

Five left bank 1996’s – JM realised early it was a 1996 Horizontal so just looked smug!

Branaire Ducru – Fine but just not exciting, proper claret good fruit and structure but no more
Calon Segur – Slightly tighter and with away to go, nice
Pontet Canet -
Leoville Poyferre – Showy and in all honesty a bit of a one glass wonder…a little over fruited
Cos d’Estournel – Very classy and TB spotted in immediately, a lovely wine that is great now but has a long, long future

Overall I think we were a bit too critical of these wines. 13 year old clarets from a good vintage, they were structured and if there was a fault it was that they lacked charm (a little like).

With a couple of tarts (Apple and Plum!!):

Rieussec 1975 – 2bts – My birth year and the first 1975 Sauternes I have had. Both bottles were good and very similar (not always the case) lovely texture and superb with the tarts and remnants of cheese. Very honeyed and complex but with acidity. I hadn’t planned to have two bottles but it was worth it!

By the time the glasses were cleaned it was 3am!! A great night.

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2008 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spatlese Auktion Goldkapsel, Schloss Lieser (Mosel) -17,  Only available at the Auction in Germany but interesting to taste, beautiful texture, great length.

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