Our last big dinner of 2011 was a cracker, no older vintages here as this is a new project but one set for great things I think. The actual launch was last year at Mossiman’s so this year was a lower key and focussed dinner here at C&B’s HQ. We began as we always do, with good reason, by having Delamotte NV, delicious.

After a warm welcome from Adam, Lodovico Antinori, a legend of the wine world, then started proceedings with a little background to this estate – Tenuta di Biserno in Bibbona just up the road from Bolgheri. The estate had at one time been earmarked for possible inclusion in Ornellaia but as sometimes happens this never occurred and instead Lodovico has decided that this will be his “last great” project. The estate is planted with a predominance of Cabernet Franc but also Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot (in more than it’s token Bordeaux amounts). The wines we were to taste and drink are from the first two released vintages- there were bits of 2006 made but essentially this is a story that starts from the 2007 vintage.

Over the first course of Oriental Duck Salad we had the three wines from 2008. Il Pino di Biserno which is the 2nd wine of the estate and was wonderfully easy to appreciate even now but with more to come in the medium term. Biserno which is the main wine of the estate and showed brilliantly (for me the wine of the night if I had to pick one); it has excellent balance and harmony that means the abundant fruit is kept in check with a framing structure that is a very complete scenario. Finally Lodovico which is from a specific plot within the estate and will not be made every year – there will be no 2009 and a minute 2010 for instance. This is a brooding wine of great depth and in need of time though impressive even now, it will be very interesting to see the development of Biserno vs Lodovico in each vintage when they are both made. These 2008’s were very impressive as there is the Tuscan warmth and ripe richness but you get a feeling of a cool structure too, classical is an overused word in wine these days but there is a good “dollop” of this here.

With the rest of the menu we had the 2007’s of the same three wines in larger formats, something I love and which add to any occasion. The generalisation of the 2007 vintage is that the wines are softer, more lush at the moment and very expressive. The density of 2008 is replaced with a more opulent feeling. So first up was Il Pino in Magnum, this is ready to go now, I will keep some but this would be a “restaurant cracker” of a wine with the Mossiman’s signature Risotto ai Funghi it was brilliant. What followed with the Roast Venison and then Welsh Rarebit was the Biserno and Lodovico both from Jeroboam. The Biserno was a little more closed than the other two 2007’s but with the food the texture was very classy. The Lodovico with the food was a star, the richness and almost flamboyance matching brilliantly for a hedonistic finale. It is great to be in on an estate from the off whether you are a buyer or a seller and this feels the case here. Meeting and listening to Lodovico speak about the wines adds a lot as there is a sense of fun and humour (and a twinkle in the eye) that means you just know you are in safe but exciting hands.

There will be more dinners in 2012, of that I am sure!

To view latest available wines from Tenuta di Biserno, please click here

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From there, the 14 of us were seated and started on Veal Carpaccio, rocket, parmesan and black truffle with this we had the two wines from the new, well new to Roberto from this vintage (2008), vineyard of Cerretta – the wines were the Barbera and the Langhe Nebbiolo. First up Barbera Cerretta 2008, this was several peoples surprise wine of the night, such fruit but also a savoury edge and real substance, a seriously under-rated wine, this is on clay and shows richness…if only people took Barbera a little more seriously. The second wine was the almost unique Langhe Nebbiolo Cerretta 2008, I say almost unique as there is likely (90%) to be a Langhe Nebbiolo in 2009 too. Although, the 2009 will be released next year after 3 years in barrel rather than the 2008′s 2 years. Both wines could be Barolo, technically and in quality, but this being Roberto, only the very best will do. The Langhe Nebbiolo Cerretta 2008 is stunning, I love it, a Volnay of a Barolo that isn’t actually a Barolo if that makes sense, this is no novelty. Next up was the obligatory Mushroom risotto with a pair I have had many times and was to have both nights but I will never ever tire of them. Barolo Cascina Francia 2005 & 2006 the former has amazing accessible balance, the latter is so classically correct, structured with lifted fruit, a must for Barolo lovers, I’ve bought a lot of 06′s so also always a relief too! I will repeat something here that Roberto said and that is that 2005 is a good and consistent (across the region) year as it was pretty easy;  2006 whilst technically better is less consistent as there was great ripeness, great tannin and more excess so the balance was harder to strike…there are people out there who have produced better 2005′s than 2006′s.

The final two wines accompanied two courses Braised Lamb Shank with Potato Puree and then Cheese, the wines were both first timers to me Barolo Cascina Francia 1996 & Monfortino 1996. Both wines had been decanted out of the bottle and back about 2 hours before serving, the others were checked but then just poured from the bottle. This vintage has a lot of classical similarities to 2006 – taut structure, dense tannin and fruit. The Cascina Francia was stunning, young with a proper tightness wonderful balance and a way to go, no rough edges, ripe tannins, open enough to be no waste now. The Monfortino 1996 will outlive me but actually came out to play quite flirtatiously – it is a profound wine and chewy in a “see you in 10yrs” sort of way; there is fruit in abundance but presently subdued, the texture tells you everything – it took may be 15 minutes in glass to sing but it showed all its class.

We were well looked after by Franco’s…a memorable evening and a great atmosphere that lead on nicely to the following day…

The next evening we were at Mossiman’s, this time 50 people in the top room, a wonderful layout and stunning wines led to superb night. First up was the Delamotte Blanc de Blancs NV, always a wonderful aperitif Champagne, elegant and almost too drinkable. Once seated we got the evening going. There were many interludes during the evening with Roberto, Alison (Buchanan) and myself speaking. Roberto was asked to talk about the philosophy of the estate…he quite quickly pointed out that the estate was about people not philosophy, a point that struck home later with a poignant toast Roberto led to his father. The first food and wines were Barbera Cerretta 2008 & Barbera Cascina Francia 2008 with a delicious Warm Oriental Duck and Vegetable Salad. It was a great pairing that showed the difference between the two sites so very well, the clay of Cerretta give more flamboyance and fruit whilst the Cascina Francia was more savoury, serious, masculine and structured. They developed wonderfully in the glasses though the evening.

From here we had the same pairing as previously Barolo Cascina Francia 2005 & 2006 with the trademark Mossiman’s Risotto ai Funghi. Roberto spoke of the differences between the vintages and about Cascina Francia as a whole.

As we had done the previous night the last two wines were served with the last two courses, people having plenty of wines to re-visit, those two courses were Roasted Highland Venison, Juniper Berry Sauce, Market vegetables & English Farmhouse Cheese, Walnut and Raisin Bread. Far more importantly the wines were Monfortino 1997 (magnums) & 2002. Here Roberto spoke passionately of the 1997 being a good year and the year his son was born and of his decision to make a 2002 Monfortino but no Cascina Francia. 2002 was seen by many as a bad vintage…there was a lot of hail and bad weather, amazingly none of which hit Cascina Francia. After a severe Green harvest and with a small crop on the vines there was then a magical three weeks up to the harvest. Roberto then spoke with his father, who was by this time unable to join him amongst the vines, about the fact he had a small but immaculate harvest. The decision was then made to make only a Monfortino, tasting the wine shows this was clearly the correct decision. The amazingly thing about the 1997 and 2002 that we finished on was how brilliant they were whilst so different. The 2002 is a richer more dense and primary fruited wine that showed a loit of class but actually closed down a little in glass, this is a great but it may be about to go to sleep. The 1997 started as archetypal maturing Nebbiolo nose and just got better and better and more and more multi-faceted and complex. A Joy that I can still all but taste.

The atmosphere though the whole evening was magical with Roberto speaking passionately but concisely, customers getting bottles signed and everyone just loving the wines…

Further Options

Tenuta di Trinoro 2009 In the Press

 Reviewed by Antonio Galloni, eRobertParker.com 

“Andrea Franchetti’s 2009s are stellar. The wines show gorgeous, expressive fruit with less of the extreme ripeness and heaviness of past years. In most years Franchetti picks extremely late, but in 2009 the vines reached full phenolic ripeness earlier than most years. Franchetti explains that the climate at Trinoro has become increasingly tropical, thus creating conditions that are more favorable for Merlot, hence his decision to reintroduce the Palazzi bottling in 2009. All three 2009s are stellar.”

Tenuta di Trinoro Tenuta di Trinoro Vino da Tavola 2009

“The estate’s 2009 Tenuta di Trinoro presents exotic notes of wild cherries, plums, spices, minerals and licorice all of which come together on a silky, polished frame. Smoke, incense and a host of other seductive, beguiling aromas and flavors add complexity as they wrap around the seriously intense finish. The 2009 Tenuta shows off marvelous intensity and a full-throttle personality while retaining a touch more freshness than is sometimes the case. In 2009 the Tenuta is 42% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Franc, 12%, Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029.” 97/100

Tenuta di Trinoro Palazzi IGT 2009

“The 2009 Palazzi emerges from the glass with super-ripe dark fruit intermingled with floral overtones. The wine turns darker and positively explosive with time in the glass while retaining much of its understated personality. A final blast of dark red fruit frames the finish. The 2009 Palazzi is 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc that spent 7 months in neutral French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029.” 94+/100

Tenuta di Trinoro Cupole di Trinoro IGT

“The 2009 Le Cupole di Trinoro is a gorgeous, radiant wine. Layers of silky red berries, flowers and spices blossom beautifully on the palate. The wine’s minerality appears shortly thereafter, providing a wonderful sense of balance. The 2009 Cupole shows fabulous harmony all the way through to the finish. This is without question one of the very finest wines being made in Tuscany today in its price range. Readers who want to get a sense of how great 2009 was at Trinoro may want to start here. Le Cupole is the second selection of barrels that are culled out of the production of the flagship Tenuta di Trinoro. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019.” 92/100

For more information about Tenuta di Trinoro, please visit our website www.corneyandbarrow.com.

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The top 10 at Corney & Barrow

 18 Aug 2011 by Richard Hemming, JancisRobinson.com

Corney & Barrow very kindly offered subscribers to this site some free tickets to their summer tasting in June. They didn’t come without a catch, however, since I asked the lucky few to rank and score their top 10 wines of the tasting. So, many thanks to Tim Jackson, Mark Chenhall, Andy MacFaul, Leigh Johnson and Nick Davidson for sharing their thoughts with us.

It was an informal experiment that nonetheless yielded strong results. All three of the J J Prüm Rieslings that were on show appear in our aggregate top 10. As Mark commented, ‘they are just so good, and their combination of fruit, acidity and precise minerality make for a compelling mouthful of wine’.

The Achaval Ferrer wines were all highly thought of too, with Finca Bella Vista at number 2 in the charts (and Finca Mirador at number 11) – although Tim comments that they are ‘all well made, clearly, but in an overly hedonistic alcoholic fashion that Argentina doesn’t need to own’.

The Romeo Rioja at number 4 also split opinion, with several of us noting its relentlessly modern and powerful style – although all agreeing it is impressive. There was general admiration for the Delamotte champagnes too, with the newly released Blanc de Blancs 2002 the overall preference.

Looking at the list as a whole, it has a pleasingly catholic range of origin and style – a credit to to Corney & Barrow’s buying team. It also illustrates reassuringly varied taste from our five volunteers. It doesn’t feature much in the way of bargains, however, and indeed the whole portfolio is stoutly priced.

Thanks again to Tim, Mark, Andy, Leigh, Nick and all at Corney & Barrow for their help.

The aggregate top 10, compiled from the rankings from all six of us, is as follows:

1. J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2009 Mosel
2 .Achaval Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2007 Mendoza
3. Biserno, Il Pino di Biserno 2007 IGT Toscana
4. Benjamin Romeo, La Cueva del Contador 2007 Rioja
5. René Rostaing, Cuvée Les Terroirs 2008 Côte Rôtie
6. J J Prüm, Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2008 Mosel
7. Giacomo Conterno, Cascia Francia 2008 Barbera d’Alba
8. J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel
9. Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 Champagne
10. Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa Valley

My full notes follow below, ordered by style and country or region. Within each section they are grouped by colour and then listed alphabetically by producer (sur)name.

 
CHAMPAGNE

Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 Champagne 16.5 Drink 2011-2014
Cream cheese on the nose, then toast on the palate. Light bodied, ephemeral, perhaps missing a bit of vim, but a classy number nonetheless. (RH) 12%
£39.99 Corney & Barrow

ROSÉ

Olivier Leflaive, Cuvée Margoton Rosé 2009 Bourgogne 15 Drink 2010-2011
Very light. Not sure it tastes of anything really. (RH) 12.5%
£10.99 Corney & Barrow

Ch Léoube, Le Secret de Léoube Rosé 2010 Côtes de Provence 16.5 Drink 2011-2012
Made by Jean-Jaques Ott, who sold his eponymous winery to Louis Roederer in 2000. It has all the mineral quality and texture of the best Provence rosé but with more concentration, fullness and body than most. (RH) 13%
£19.99 Corney & Barrow

Ch Léoube, Rosé 2010 Côtes de Provence 16 Drink 2011-2012
Gentle, definite mineral scent. Peachy and floral. Very slight but very good at what it does. (RH) 12.5%
£13.99 Corney & Barrow

Tissier, Rosé 2010 Sancerre 16 Drink 2011-2012
Leafy, good level of red cherry and lemon sherbet flavour. Dry, refreshing. (RH) 12.5%
£14.99 Corney & Barrow

ARGENTINA

Dominio de Toyo Torrontés/Chardonnay 2010 Famatina Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Smells much more like Torrontés than Chardonnay. Soapy. Steep at the price. (RH) 12.5%
£7.29 Corney & Barrow

J & F Lurton, Gran Lurton Corte Friulano 2009 Uco Valley 16.5 Drink 2011-2014
Oak comes through well: creamy spicy, vanilla – quite thick on the tongue. Long, smoky finish. Not for the oakophobic. (RH) 13%
£14.29 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Quimera 2008 Mendoza 16+ Drink 2012-2015
Scented, fragrant, vibrant fruit but quite austere and unyielding on the palate. Needs time – a sleeping giant. (RH) 14%
£24.99 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Mirador Malbec 2007 Medrano 17 Drink 2011-2017
Clay vineyard at 2,600 feet above sea level. Blueberries, cherries, loads of purity and length. Has all the character of Malbec without the spoofy overkill. (RH) 14%
£51.99 Corney & Barrow

Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2007 Mendoza 16.5+ Drink 2013-2017
Limestone vineyard at 3,100 feet above sea level. More tannic and taut than the Mirador. Fine yet muscular. Little complexity – as of yet? (RH) 14%
£51.99 Corney & Barrow

Dominio de Toyo Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2010 Famatina Valley 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
A bit reductive in a not unattractive way. Light but not watery. Easy drinking, satisfyingly dry. (RH) 12.5%
£7.29 Corney & Barrow

Ruca Malen, Kinien Malbec 2007 Mendoza 16+ Drink 2011-2013
Violets, plums, creamy vanilla oak. Dry tannins, full and powerful, high acid. Nice development – and still more to come, it seems. (RH) 14%
£19.99 Corney & Barrow

AUSTRALIA & SOUTH AFRICA

Heywood Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2010 South Eastern Australia 15 Drink 2011
Neutral, light grass and lime. Decent but undistinguished. (RH) 11.5%
£7.99 Corney & Barrow

Old Vines Wine Cellars Chenin Blanc 2009 Stellenbosch 15 Drink 2011
Dry, a bit cheesy. Ripe enough though rather wishy-washy overall. (RH) 13%
£9.29 Corney & Barrow

Eagle Vale Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2008 Margaret River 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Green pepper, black cherry, smooth and drinkable but with a herbal dominance that is a bit overblown. (RH) 14%
£12.49 Corney & Barrow

Mont du Toit 2003 Wellington 16.5 Drink 2007-2011
Very ripe blackcurrants, dark liquorice, tar and aniseed. Dense, heavy and oaked. (RH) 14%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Nelson Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2003 Paarl 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Ripe blackcurrant, tomato stalk, light body and some chocolate and smoke to finish. Pretty tannic, though finely chiselled. (RH) 13.5%
£13.99 Corney & Barrow

CALIFORNIA & CHILE

**Carmel Road Riesling 2009 Monterey County 16 Drink 2011-2014
Lime, lemongrass plus some unexpected honey on the palate. Dry finish, but then lots of opulent stone fruit which undermines the Riesling-ness. (RH) 13%
£14.39 Corney & Barrow

**Carmel Road Pinot Noir 2009 Monterey County 17 Drink 2011-2014
Luscious red fruit with cordial style concentration. Sweet and fruit-centric, but dry on the finish. Not for Pinot purists, but a good example in the oversized mode. (RH) 14%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Viña Mar, Reserva Pinot Noir 2010 Casablanca Valley 14.5 Drink 2011-2012
Very tame nose. Light, a bit meaningless, not a good buy at the price. Nowhere near as good as their 2008 was. (RH) 14%
£9.99 Corney & Barrow

Rosario Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Central Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Bit of reduction, vibrant blackcurrant juice. Prominent oak but nicely handled. Technical but quaffable. (RH) 13%
£6.99 Corney & Barrow

San Pedro, 1865 Single Vineyard Carmenère 2009 Maule Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Medicinal, syrupy fruit. Floaty, sweet oak – unintegrated. Peppery finish adds a bit of interest. Not bad, just not as premium as it tries to be. (RH) 14.5%
£12.99 Corney & Barrow

 FRENCH WHITE

**Henri Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Vin de Pays du Val de Loire 15 Drink 2011-2012
Grassy, very hard and citric. Sour finish. Hard. (RH) 12.5%
£9.99 Corney & Barrow

André et Edmond Figeat, Les Chaumiennes 2010 Pouilly-Fumé 15.5 Drink 2011-2012
Mineral, smoke, slate – very true. Austere, bitter juniper finish. Initially appealing but seems a bit too bitter to enjoy in quantity. (RH) 13%
£13.79 Corney & Barrow

Ch Grinou, La Combe de Grinou 2009 Bergerac 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
60% Sémillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc. Green pepper, lime, very sharp but not over-zealous acid. Dry, plump, floral. (RH) 12%
£8.29 Corney & Barrow

FRENCH RED

**Bosquet des Papes, Chante le Merle 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 17 Drink 2010-2016
Bronzed colour. Some meat and gravy on the palate, lots of concentration, ultra smooth tannic paste. As warm and inviting as a fireside. (RH) 13.5%
£46.89 Corney & Barrow

**Bourg, Les Graviers 2009 St-Nicolas de Bourgueil 16 Drink 2011-2014
Fragrant, leathery, luxurious. Bit of green leaf for authenticity – bright pink hue, tame tannins, a few sprinkles of dark chocolate. (RH) 12.5%
£12.49 Corney & Barrow

Jean-Pierre Moueix, Corney & Barrow Company Reserve 2005 Bordeaux 15.5 Drink 2008-2011
Light, rather fruitless. Liquorice and a touch of toast to finish, but rather dull. Drink now. (RH) 13%
£11.49 Corney & Barrow

René Rostaing, Cuvée Les Terroirs 2008 Côte Rôtie 17 Drink 2013-2018
in 2008, Rostaing blended the three separate cuvées he usually makes into one wine. Really peppered. Violets, blackberries and seared meat. Youthful – too keen, needs time. Plenty of acid to last. (RH) 13.5%
£34.99 Corney & Barrow

Saissac Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 IGP Pays d’Oc 16 Drink 2011-2015
Subtle black fruit perfume with chocolate, dark spice, melded tannins and a slight bitter twist. VGV (RH) 13%
£7.49 Corney & Barrow

Tardieu Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2008 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 16 Drink 2011-2015
Scented and perfumed on the nose, with a gravelly texture on the palate and plenty of heat on the finish – better integration than their 08 Rasteau. (RH) 14.5%
£39.19 Corney & Barrow

Tardieu Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2008 Rasteau 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
Ripe cherry cake nose. Bit of VA lurking about, and a little spirity too. (RH) 14%
£16.59 Corney & Barrow

 GERMANY

J J Prüm, Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2008 Mosel 16.5 Drink 2011-2021
Slate and steel, tropical lime, fragrant and spicy. Babyfaced, but approachable now. Much less abrasive and therefore much more appealing than the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett. (RH) 9.5%
£25.29 Corney & Barrow

J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Ausese Goldkapsel 2009 Mosel 17.5+ Drink 2014-2029
Only primary now, but the balance and length attests to its longevity. Wonderful honeyed purity. Every adjective you can think of for Riesling is here. Very very long and sweet to finish. (RH) 7.5%
£64.69 Corney & Barrow

J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel 16 Drink 2011-2016
So pungent! Really very extreme – perhaps too sulphurous. I tasted this recently in my MW exam and it perplexed me then too. (RH) 9.5%
£20.19 Corney & Barrow

 ITALY

Il Carretto, Blanco 2010 IGT Sicilia 15 Drink 2011-2012
Almond and marzipan fragrance plus banana and white pepper. Tastes like Fiano plus Grüner Veltliner plus Viognier (turns out it’s Grillo). Bit floral for some, but good enough for the money. (RH) 12%
£6.49 Corney & Barrow

Cecilia Beretta, Masseria Bianca Fiano 2010 IGT Salento 15.5 Drink 2011-2012
Aromatic, rich and viscous. Firm, with a bit of phenolic grip. Bitters to finish. (RH) 14%
£7.99 Corney & Barrow

**Enrico Santini, Campo alla Casa 2009 Bolgheri 15 Drink 2011-2012
Grapefruit, banana, rather sharply acidic. Plus there’s an aftershave type of flavour. Bit of a mish-mash. (RH) 13.5%
£14.99 Corney & Barrow

Biserno, Il Pino di Biserno 2007 IGT Toscana 17 Drink 2011-2016
Blackcurrant, truffle, mushroom, earth. Leaf litter on the palate, wonderful creaminess, tannins are loose but supportive. Fine acid. (RH) 14%
£38.99 Corney & Barrow

Il Carretto 2010 IGT Puglia 16 Drink 2011-2014
Simple, cheery cherry fruit. Very drinkable, soft and balanced with a good savoury dryness and respectable length. GV (RH) 12%
£6.49 Corney & Barrow

Giacomo Conterno, Cascina Francia 2008 Barbera d’Alba 16 Drink 2011-2016
Green leaf, black cherry. Dark, impenetrable. Bit of funk on the palate – seems all a bit overbearing to me. Youthful, for sure, but rather heavily extracted too. (RH) 14.5%
£36.69 Corney & Barrow
 

PORTUGAL

Quinta da Chocapalha, Reserva 2008 Lisboa 17 Drink 2011-2013
Flinty and broad like Meursault – the spitting image! Nicely constructed, long smoky finish. Excellent. (RH) 13%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow

Wine and Soul, Guru 2008 Douro 16.5+ Drink 2011-2013
Tangerine, flowers, nuts, bitter almonds, very serious and firm. Probably needs a few years yet – but it’s already showing signs of oxidation, so not too long. (RH) 12.5%
£27.49 Corney & Barrow

Wine and Soul, Pintas Character 2007 Douro 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Something funky this way comes. Definite fungal character. Not necessarily unattractive, but too dominant. Very dry and unforgiving. (RH) 14.5%
£26.99 Corney & Barrow

SPAIN

Roqueta, Mas Oliveras Macabeo/Chardonnay 2010 Catalunya 14.5 Drink 2011
Nutty, clinical, full bodied. Dry and textural but crude. (RH) 13%
£7.49 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, Predicador Blanco 2009 Rioja 16 Drink 2011-2014
Lovely generous oak, really custardy and powerful. Very much the modern style – oak über alles. (RH) 13.5%
£23.69 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, Predicador 2007 Rioja 16+ Drink 2012-2017
Very closed nose. Better brightness on the palate, but all a bit serious. Needs food, time or both! (RH) 14%
£24.29 Corney & Barrow

Benjamín Romeo, La Cueva del Contador 2007 Rioja 16.5+ Drink 2013-2023
Dry, quite light bodied. Substantial tannins, but very drinkable. Dry, bold – perhaps a bit too flashy and over-exuberant. (RH) 14%

Visit www.corneyandbarrow.com or call 020 7265 2430 to buy these wines.

Further Options

The first two wines I tasted however were the 2009 and 2010 vintages of his white, Campo alla Casa, which is a blend of Vermentino and Sauvignon Blanc.  The 2009 was super, displaying an abundance of green and stone fruits coupled with a mineral intensity.  Whilst it had the expected levels of acidity, it was also beautifully rounded and really showcased the potential a number of whites have if they are afforded a little time to develop further.  This point was backed up by the 2010, which was much more what you would expect from a Sauvignon blend.  Very clean with lots of citrus fruit and zesty acidity, I will be very keen to try this a few months down the line.

The Poggio al Moro 2009 was the first of four reds opened to try.  An intense, fruit heavy nose of cherries and blackcurrants was backed up on the palate by subtle spice and creaminess from the oak.  Still pleasingly elegant though, with well-balanced acidity and soft enticing tannins.  Following this was two bottles of I Montali from the 2006 and 2007 vintages.  The 2007 was still very much on the youthful side with lots of firm, grippy tannins.  Big and intense with dark fruits to the fore alongside toasty oak notes.  The 2006, as you would expect, was the more approachable of the two with softer, riper tannins.  Whilst plums and blackcurrants were evident again there was a more rounded feel, which I put down to a more elegant, restrained level of oak.  The 2006 was drinking beautifully now but there was arguably more potential in the structure of the 2007. 

The final red was Enrico’s flagship wine, the Montepergoli from 2006.  Only produced in the best vintages this was a fantastically rich, complex wine.  Mocha and chocolate complemented fruit and minerality alongside an underlying quality of Bordeaux earthiness.  Both the structure and the finish mark this wine as one for the long term.  This was a great first tasting that showed off some super wines from a producer at the top of his game.  Hopefully the first of many!

For more information, or to buy these wines, please visit our website, www.corneyandbarrow.com.

Further Options

I have put my scores (in brackets out of 20) and rough drinking windows. These are not purely tasting notes, there are comments and observations thrown in too….

Barbera Cerretta 2009 (17.75-18.25) 2012 – 2015+

Harvested at the same time (22nd/23rd September) as the Barbera in Cascina Francia. A “very good year for Barbera, end of august was very hot when normally there are storms”. Rich, deep with dark fruit. A hint of violet about the colour. A really fresh edge to the wine – Dark cherry, cassis and a touch of mint. Very pure and clean but with balance. Structured but still juicy.  Up on intensity over the 2008.

Barbera Cascina Francia 2009 (18.25) 2014 – 2017+

Similar in overall colour to Cerretta but darker at the core and this followed through to the wine.  A base, savoury nose with stones as well as real dark fruit. A chunky minerality but with definition. Fruit and real guts. No rawness. As Roberto commented, “more salty than Cerretta”. Serious wine.

Barolo Cascina Francia 2007 (18.25 -18.75) 2014 – 2027+

Elegant, light colour especially after the Barberas. There is no Monfortino in 2007 although 1 barrel was made as Monfortino and then blended in 2 years ago. The 2007 vintage was not so hot but followed a very dry winter when there was little or no snow, no ice and hardly any rain. The 2007 will not need as much aging as many Cascina Francia’s (certainly less than the ultra-classical, very structured 2006 that preceded it) as there is a more immediate balance to the wine. We discussed racking with Roberto at this stage as he commented that this had been racked just 10 days ago. In the 1st year there is typically 3-4 rackings and then after that, 1 racking every 1-2 years. I found the wine very impressive and also seductive – a great wine to show those unfamiliar with Conterno’s style of Barolo.

Nebbiolo da Barolo Cerretta 2009 (18.25) 2014 – 2023+

I have called it this as it is not yet decided whether this will be Barolo Cerretta or Langhe Nebbiolo as it was in 2008. If it is the latter, then it will be bottled after 3 years rather than the 2 years that the 2008 had…if the former, then it’ll be bottled after 4 years as per Cascina Francia. Roberto says he is 70% decided it’ll be Langhe Nebbiolo again in 2009 for a couple of reasons- firstly when tasted up against the Cascina Francia 2009, you can see why (though in isolation anybody else would release this as a Barolo). Secondly he is so pleased with the 2010 that he thinks it would be good to start “Barolo Cerretta” with a great vintage. We’ll see what is decided. The wine was expectedly lighter than the CF 07, very defined strawberry (fraise de bois). Very, very elegant, with more depth than the Langhe Nebbiolo Cerretta 2008 that I had last night (trying to keep the trip going you see). I think this is a seriously interesting wine whatever it is released as. The very best thing is that Roberto has two such different “Crus” to work with. They complement each other perfectly.

Barolo Cascina Francia 2009 (18.75 – 19) 2018 – 2032+

Very, very fine, elegance but also “grit and grip”. Seriously good combination of richness and savoury minerality.  You can now see why Roberto thinks Langhe Nebbiolo for the 2009 Cerretta wine when compared to this it is very impressive.

Barolo Cascina Francia 2008 (17.75 -18.25) 2015 – 2030+

More degraded fruit character and a touch of mocha; there is a maturity about the way this wine is. Roberto commented he could see a common thread with the 1971 that we had the previous night. He felt it will need 5-6 years in bottle to come together. I liked this and also loved the sense that had built up of the Cascina Francia showing the different years so well; there was a similarity but a very definite vintage variation.  Just as there should be…

We then moved on to taste the Monfortino…three vintages in the order 2005 – 2004 – 2006. I ask a few questions on Monfortino generally. The wine is not a set parcel but often comes from the same area.  Cascina Francia was bought in 1974.   Since 1978, the Monfortino has always come from only the Cascina Francia vineyard (as had all the Giacomo Conterno wines until the Cerretta vineyard was bought in 2008). The only “decided upcoming non-Monfortino” year is 2007 as it did not stand out enough – this is quite controversial as the vintage is being lauded as a good one. A Monfortino is always “made’ and then blended in if not selected to be released on its own. The typical aging for Monfortino is 7 years although this can vary as it was 8 years in 2002 and may be the same in 2006 (see below). The freak year of 2002 where there was a Monfortino but no Cascina Francia was due to the vineyard missing hail – and having seen how steep Cascina Francia is, the rain runs off it anyway – and being in Roberto’s words “all exceptional” when he made this comment to his father he said, “Simple only Monfortino”…a brave move as with the choice of not making 2007 Monfortino. Roberto is here to do what is right, not necessarily what is expected. The Monfortino is always labelled on the front as Cascina Francia but on the back of the giant Botti, it has a Monfortino label…a nice little “hidden” touch.

Monfortino 2005 (18.75-19.25) 2015 – 2035+

Wonderful degraded fruit but also a savoury “bovril-ness”, and a good acidity. Very very fine. It is a “straight down the middle” Monfortino. Very balanced I think this will shut down less than most. There is another level of complexity. Tasted blind I am not sure what vintage I would have guessed. Really impressive. I can’t help feeling 2005 is an underrated vintage as it has come amongst 2004, 2006 & 2007.

Monfortino 2004 (19.75-20) 2014 – 2040+

The most anticipated wine of the trip as the ingredients are there for a potential legend, this makes it exciting but also nerve-wracking. I have never scored a wine 20 but I think this is the closest to perfection I have tasted hence the score. There is nothing I would change about the wine. I initially wrote light depth. This is because there is so much there but at the same time it is so fresh. The precision is immense, roses, violets, strawberries but also that classic tar and savoury edge. It just got better and better and there was no way I was going to spit it out. Amazing balance of freshness and depth…in a word BRILLIANT.

Monfortino 2006 (19.25) 2018-2038++

I am a big fan of 2006′s as I think they are what Barolo is all about, you can argue 2004 is the perfect vintage and you’re probably right but I would rather a 2006 style Barolo than an easy fleshy (2000?) style any day. Roberto was spot on to show this last as it is a big chap on the finish. It has that degraded maturity of fruit on the nose and is a harder but totally in-check version of the 2005. Roberto says he may well give this 8 yrs in Botti rather than Monfortino’s standard 7. This is one of the treasures of traditional Barolo – longer in very large Botti/barrel means more elegance and a chance for the wine to meld together and soften a fraction.  In the world of new oak wines where the oak adds structure, here the very old (50-55yrs in places) wood allows the wine to mellow and breathe.  A deeply impressive wine that in 30 yrs time will be fascinating “up against” the 2004.

 Some notes on the 2010 vintage – it has been an amazing run from 2004 to 2010:

 2010 – Very late harvest, lots of tannin which meant you had to harvest very, very late to make sure you had the fruit (and tannin) ripeness to go with the tannic structure – Classical like 2006 but may be even better.

 After this we headed to the Vineyards…more of which tomorrow…

Further Options

There are 7 producers in Piedmont that I aim to buy every year and these are (in rough priority order): Giacomo Conterno, Bartolo Mascarello, G.Rinaldi, F.Rinaldi, Brovia (esp. Villero), Marcarini (esp Brunate) and from Barbaresco, Produttori del Barbaresco (great list of these at Zucca). These are all traditional in their approach, which reflects my preference for this style of Barolo (and wine in general) and the preferred style of my Barolo “Mentor”.

Right, so on to the evening in question. All the wines had been double decanted out of the bottle and back in at about 1pm that day. After a couple of bottles of Prosecco and with everyone calmly assembled we embarked on the food. A three part starter of Tuna “crudo”, San Daniele & Mozzarella Trapanese (this is brilliant, Mozzarella with almonds, tomatoes etc). I will admit here that I am no guru on food and wine matching; I follow a few rules but basically wines I like seem to work with food I like. The two wines we had were from Roberto Conterno, (Giacomo’s grandson, the headman and winemaker at Cantina Giacomo Conterno)- Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia 2008 (from magnum, I love magnums!) and Barbera d’Alba Cerreta 2008.

Brief background here. The Cascina Francia vineyard was bought in 1974 and from 1978 to 2008 (when Roberto bought Cerreta halfway through the vintage) was responsible for all the estates production (Barbera, Barolo Cascina Francia and Barolo Monfortino) before 1974 the estate used to buy in grapes. So the wines, as I expected the Cascina Francia, showed a more savoury serious edge and a greater depth, this is a wine that will age in my opinion in a similar time frame to southern Rhone reds, it is great now but will attain more complexity over the next 3-7 years and beyond. The Cerreta, over which Roberto had little experience in the vineyard, was softer, more ready (the bottle vs magnum will have exaggerated this too), more feminine and with redder fruits. In general, the Cerreta was preferred now but ultimately for me the Cascina Francia will eclipse the Cerreta in 2-3 years. Both great but different which, after all, is what it is about…

Next up was Ravioli of asparagus & ricotta with, in some ways, the most interesting wine of the night; Langhe Nebbiolo Cerreta 2008. This wine, from the same vineyard as the second Barbera, could easily have been released as a Barolo but Roberto, being the perfectionist he is, decided it was never going to be released as such so, in the same way as a Burgundian might release any wine as Bourgogne Rouge,this was released as Langhe Nebbiolo. In time, I am sure it will be Barolo but when is not yet clear (I hope to find out in 2 weeks when I visit). As it was released as a ‘Langhe’, it was bottled and therefore released after just 2 years (like the Barbera) rather after 4-5 years as for a Barolo. The colour was pale; Nebbiolo is big on structure but a thin skinned variety more like Pinot Noir than most, and the nose was so pretty and red fruited with a really fragrant, refined edge to it. A real crowd pleaser but in a non-frivolous way. If this ends up being the only time it is a non Barolo then it’ll be a collectors piece, either way it is a wonderful wine. The Ravoli was superbly fresh and lifted.

I suppose you could say things got serious now, food wise I was very impressed with the Lamb breast, cannellini, spinach & salsa verde which was fresh but with a good amount of fat (I am a firm “fat is flavour” believer) and a great sounding board for the wines. These were two vintages – 2005 & 2006 – of Barolo Cascina Francia. This is essentially the main wine of the estate. The Barolo Monfortino is sometimes made from the top selection of this vineyard in some years. From 2000 onwards it was made in 2000, 2001, 2002 (controversially but wonderfully), 2004, 2005(?), 2006(?), not 2007, after that not yet known. Roberto firmly believes Monfortino does not “work” in the vintages with heat spikes like 2003 or 2007.

The Cascina Francia is a wonderful vineyard of 14 hectares with 9 planted with Nebbiolo. There is arguably no stronger link between a producer and a vineyard in Piedmont; think monopole, like La Tâche for Domaine de la Romaneé-Conti for example. These two wines were very different, purely because the vintages are so different. The 2005 was comfortably the more open wine showing well all ready, I think over time this will be proved as one of those wines that is good young and old and doesn’t go into its shell too much in between. A really good wine to decant on a friday morning and sample over a weekend to get the idea of Barolo. The 2006 is a classical, dense wine with refined but big structure and the long-haul. This is for the classists out there (if I am sounding biased I have bought a lot, in my terms, of 2006 Baroli). The comparison was fascinating and the wines opened up more and more in glass. I was delighted with how they showed.

I think some of the misconceptions of Barolo (and this spreads to the other wines of Piedmont as happens with human nature wanting to simplify things) is that the wines are massive, dense and “need” time. In many cases the Baroli and Barbaresci do reward patience and take time to be at their optimum but they are wonderful in youth. The comparison with Burgundy and Pinot Noir is far more accurate than anything else. I would suggest that people experiment; there are many wonderful producers and all sorts of levels.

I haven’t really mentioned much about the conversation but it roared like a rampant fire to make it a memorable evening. Before we knew it, 7pm had become 11pm. A wonderful evening.

Are you are interested in doing something similar? Let me know.

Further Options

Source: Decanter

Further Options

It is relatively rare to witness such excitement about Italian Wine at HQ, but then, this is no ordinary Italian Wine. This is Tenuta di Biserno, the new Tuscan estate from Lodovico Antinori. Lodovico is famed for his vinous triumphs Ornellaia and Masseto – the latter of which nestled itself into the C & B stable back in 1997. He is both legend and maverick, having split from his family firm, run by his brother Piero and turned his hand to photography, amongst other things, away from the trade. But, as part of the world’s oldest wine-making dynasties (made up over 26th generations), the blood running in his veins is healthily vinous and he came home to Tuscany to start this new project, with the help of his Piero – a ‘coming-together’ which is alluded to by the coat of arms on the label of the estate’s second wine.

Lodovico was in London to launch Tenuta di Biserno and with it, his eponymous wine. A handsome man with a handsome wing-man, Vittorio Mazzetti – a childhood friend of Lodovico’s who is onboard to look after external relations – greeted me at Mosimann’s with a glass of Champagne in hand. They were early… another indication that these are no ordinary Italians. Press interview for Decanter done, it was time for the Delamotte ’99. We had 80 private customers and press arriving and as we all made our way down to the dining room, the anticipation was immense. 

Lodovico opened the evening with all the Italian charm we had been expecting and his passion for the Tenuta was clear for all to see. This was just enhanced further when the first wines were poured. With the Antinori’s typical disregard for Sangiovese, these fantastic wines are all made with Bordeaux varietals. There had been meticulous attention to detail over the menu, to ensure that everything complemented the wines to the ‘n’th degree. We need not have worried – Anton Mosimann was also attending the dinner as our guest and his experience at this level is remarkable. Quail poached in olive oil for the estate, stuffed rabbit with confit leg and a delicious savoury of porcinis and ham. However, it was Anton Mosimann’s mushroom risotto, which snuck its way into the line up, which shone the brightest. With more mushrooms than rice – it was sublime; I have rarely eaten a dish which has made me smile as much as that…

Lodovico waited until late to introduce his eponymous wine. You could hear the amazement at the wines rolling around the room – quite something (see tasting notes below).  It was a truly special night, ‘a piece of history’ as Adam said. I felt very honoured to have been a part of it.

Tasting Notes

Il Pino 2005 – very complete and balanced, the most drinkable of the night

Il Pino 2006 – very together if not quite with the charm of the 2005 or the pure fruit of 2007

Il Pino 2007 – a real little star, lovely fruit that jumps out at you, still primary but so enjoyable now

Biserno 2006 – Mellow and together, good if without the excitement of the 2007

Biserno 2007 – The star for me on the night as it is just a shade easy to appreciate at this early stage. The structure is there but does not hide anything, masculine but delicately so…one to follow

Lodovico 2007 – Dense yet fresh, dark fruits and rich texture, a long life ahead but all constituent parts are there…impressive and showing a little muscle…exciting

For more information about Tenuta di Biserno, click here

To watch Lodovico’s interview with Adam Lechmere, please click below:

Source: Decanter,  November 2010

Further Options

It was the last day of my 10 day long trip to Piemonte and I had arranged to visit the famous estate of Giacomo Conterno in Monforte d´Alba.  It had not been easy to actually book myself into their schedule.  I had visited at least 10 other wineries on my trip without the faintest of problems.  My visits to Bruno Giacosa and Angelo Gaja were easily accepted and I had my dates for them sorted out almost a month in advance.  Small producers such as Maria Teresa at Bartolo Mascarello and Davide at Giovanni Rosso fitted me in at short notice, no problems at all.  So why I wondered, was it so, so difficult to get Roberto Conterno or his right hand lady Erika to fix a date or time to meet me.  I had started to think that it was because they have many better things to do than put up with some English oenophile on his October jaunt to Italy´s North West.  After a quick succession of emails I did however get myself slotted into their schedule, probably, I thought, between the important American importers, some famous wine critic and hoards of Chinese multi millionaires.  It suddenly dawned on me that I might not need to write off the morning as they probably would want me to leave within 15 minutes of having arrived!  
 
Well, how wrong was I!  Firstly, I had expected something a bit grander, not necessarily a castle but something a bit less non descript, a box kind of construction with yellow walls behind rather fine wrought iron gates.  I parked my car next to the rather surprised looking guard dog and walked towards what I presumed wrongly must be the back entrance.  I was met by Erika and she apologised many times for making it so difficult for me to visit them, it was because ´I don’t always know where Roberto is, and he doesn’t know where he is going to be, this time of year is difficult with all the picking and delivery of grapes and then fermentation´ she said rather innocently.  I did say that they could have arranged someone other than the wine maker and current head of the Conterno dynasty to meet me, after all I´m only here on holiday, I´m not really that important. ’Well there isn’t anyone else´ Erika replied ‘only me and Roberto, only Roberto doesn´t speak English!’.  It was then, rather like one of those clearing of the mist kind of moments, where it all suddenly becomes crystal clear, the only reason why it was so difficult to pin them down on a time or date to meet me was because they were all so busy, not with other people like me or more important buyers, critics or Chinese Millionaires, but just simply because he is effectively a one man band and devotes all his time to his wines.
 
We sat in the rather stark looking tasting room waiting for Roberto to arrive.  When he did he looked a bit rushed off his feet but quickly instructed me to follow and he would give me a bit of a tour.  Out of the tasting room on the same level is the bottling line and down the steps underneath the tasting room is the barrel (or Botti) cellar and fermentation cellar.  Really that is it, no great underground caverns filled with superlative older vintages or, as in Angelo Gaja’s castle, whole rooms devoted to saying how great a wine the family makes.  A very simple unsurprising winery on the surface, however under the surface that couldn´t really be further from the truth.  There were no other visitors scheduled, no American importers or buyers from China, all the work is focused on the wine in the bottle.  
 
The first thing that I noticed that was slightly different from most other, if not all other wineries, that I visited in Barolo was the fact that Roberto ferments all his wine in wood.  Most of the more modernist producers ferment in stainless steel whilst the more traditionalist ferment in epoxy lined cement.  The wood, Roberto explained, gives a more natural fermentation, as they are not temperature controlled and more gradual temperature changes resulting in longer fermentations and macerations, which he feels gets the most out of his grapes.  The next major difference is of course the length of time in barrel, more than all producers that I visited.  The barbera´s are given 2 years in large old wood casks and the Cascina Francia 4 years, the Monfortino normally 7 years, though in 2002 this was increased to 8.  Apart from this there is no ageing in the Conterno cellar, that is to say as soon as the wine is bottled it is sold and shipped out.
 
After the tour of the cellar we went back upstairs to taste the range of wines.  Roberto was constantly on duty it appeared, having to meet workman, check on things downstairs in the fermentation cellar and answer the telephone, it all made for a rather drawn out tasting. 
 
We tasted the barbera’s first, as he explained about their new purchase of 3 ha of vineyards in the cru called Cerretta.  This cru he explained gives a more feminine style of wine more overtly fruity and immediately pleasing.  The soil has more clay and is less calcareas than Cascina Francia also the exposures are different Cerretta more south east facing and Cascina Francia more south and south west.  Cerretta is about 3 Km before Serralunga d´Alba whilst Cascina Francia is about 3 Km past Serralunga d´Alba, closer to Monforte d´Alba.  There is about 1 ha of Barbera in the Cerretta vineyard and 2 ha or Nebbiolo.  In Cascina Francia there is around 9 ha of Nebbiolo and 5 ha of Barbera. 
 
Both Barbera´s were from the 08 vintage, the Cerretta much for forward and overtly juicy ripe black fruits, lots of cassis.  The Cascina Francia much more reserved and mineral in style, it will take longer to come around.  Both will age well though and Roberto recommended between 2 to 3 years for the Cascina Francia but it could last well up to 10 years or so.  The Cerretta could well be drunk now but would age gracefully for another 3 – 5.
 
We next tried the 2008 Langhe Nebbiolo, which is effectively a declassified Barolo as it was made from the fruit from the Cerretta vineyard.  He choose to make a Langhe Nebbiolo instead of a Barolo as he was not in charge of the vineyard from the beginning of the growing cycle and was not sufficiently happy with the results to call it a Barolo, though almost all other producers I am convinced would have done.  The Langhe Nebbiolo DOC is a rather peculiar being, that by his own admission, Roberto didn´t fully understand when he declassified his Cerretta.  In the rules of the regulation you are allowed to add up to 15% of other Langhe grapes (ie. Dolcetto or Barbera) to the wine.  All the grapes must be grown within the Barolo or Barbaresco areas (with some small added on areas) and is the only classification for a declassified Barolo or Barbaresco.  Nebbiolo d´Alba DOC on the other hand, should be in theory a lesser wine as it comes from outside the areas of Barolo and Barbaresco, however it has to be made from 100% Nebbiolo.  Effectively representing therefore a ´purer’ example of Nebbiolo than that of the declassified Baroli and Barbaresci.  This seems to me and apparently to Roberto to be utter madness.  The wine itself was very nice, with good balance lovely ripe strawberry fruit, instantly accessible but should last a few year too.  A very good Langhe Nebbiolo, possibly the best I tried on my trip.
 
The Cascina Francia 2006 is an altogether different animal.  2006 produced very classic, structured and surely long lived Baroli.  The Cascina Francia as you would imagine is possibly the most backward of all that I tried.  Notes of ripe red fruit and mineral need some coaxing from the glass.  In the mouth it is very tannic but with lovely purity and great length.  Very nice balancing acidity and an overall impression of a complete wine that is probably best left for another 10 - 15 years and will keep for 40.
 
The Monfortino 2002 is the fantastic product of an extremely problematic year.  For most producers 2002 is a year to forget, as hail caused havoc throughout the Langhe and many producers were forced to declassify or sell in bulk huge amounts of wine.  Hail however never touched the Cascina Francia vineyard and the quality was so good that they decided to only produce a Monfortino, which I believe is the first time since the 1978 vintage that this has happened.  I asked Roberto if the opinion of the press and wine consumers in general that 2002 as a low quality had affected them at all in their desicion to produce a Monfortino.  The answer was an emphatic ´no´, ´we do what we think is best´ he said ´we make the desicions based on the quality of our fruit, not on what others may think´.  The wine itself was superb, structured, long in the mouth.  Ripe red fruits, leather, mineral and balsamic touch, all wonderfully built for the future.   It will require at least 10 years, but it will be worth the wait.
 
As we said our goodbyes I was struck by the simplicity of Roberto, very straightforward in his views on many areas of viticulture and production.  Also very confident in his ability to fashion classic wines from the vineyards that he has under his control, however there is no pomposity or over confidence.  After all he is only doing what his Father and Grandfather have done before him its not like he has revolutionised anything.  He didn´t say very much about the wines we tasted, I was encouraged to give my views, which was a bit daunting, but I suppose he didn’t need to add very much as the wines spoke for themselves.  At the heart of these classic wines is the fantastic terroir of Cascina Francia, something that is never lost in any vintage.  Roberto´s job is basically to try and bring that terroir from the vineyard into the bottle.
 
Thanks to Roberto and Erika for spending so much time with me, it was a real privilege.  Thanks also to Will Hargrove at C&B for putting me in contact with them in the first place.                                        

Further Options