It is relatively rare to witness such excitement about Italian Wine at HQ, but then, this is no ordinary Italian Wine. This is Tenuta di Biserno, the new Tuscan estate from Lodovico Antinori. Lodovico is famed for his vinous triumphs Ornellaia and Masseto – the latter of which nestled itself into the C & B stable back in 1997. He is both legend and maverick, having split from his family firm, run by his brother Piero and turned his hand to photography, amongst other things, away from the trade. But, as part of the world’s oldest wine-making dynasties (made up over 26th generations), the blood running in his veins is healthily vinous and he came home to Tuscany to start this new project, with the help of his Piero – a ‘coming-together’ which is alluded to by the coat of arms on the label of the estate’s second wine.
Lodovico was in London to launch Tenuta di Biserno and with it, his eponymous wine. A handsome man with a handsome wing-man, Vittorio Mazzetti – a childhood friend of Lodovico’s who is onboard to look after external relations – greeted me at Mosimann’s with a glass of Champagne in hand. They were early… another indication that these are no ordinary Italians. Press interview for Decanter done, it was time for the Delamotte ’99. We had 80 private customers and press arriving and as we all made our way down to the dining room, the anticipation was immense.
Lodovico opened the evening with all the Italian charm we had been expecting and his passion for the Tenuta was clear for all to see. This was just enhanced further when the first wines were poured. With the Antinori’s typical disregard for Sangiovese, these fantastic wines are all made with Bordeaux varietals. There had been meticulous attention to detail over the menu, to ensure that everything complemented the wines to the ‘n’th degree. We need not have worried – Anton Mosimann was also attending the dinner as our guest and his experience at this level is remarkable. Quail poached in olive oil for the estate, stuffed rabbit with confit leg and a delicious savoury of porcinis and ham. However, it was Anton Mosimann’s mushroom risotto, which snuck its way into the line up, which shone the brightest. With more mushrooms than rice – it was sublime; I have rarely eaten a dish which has made me smile as much as that…
Lodovico waited until late to introduce his eponymous wine. You could hear the amazement at the wines rolling around the room – quite something (see tasting notes below). It was a truly special night, ‘a piece of history’ as Adam said. I felt very honoured to have been a part of it.
Tasting Notes
Il Pino 2005 – very complete and balanced, the most drinkable of the night
Il Pino 2006 – very together if not quite with the charm of the 2005 or the pure fruit of 2007
Il Pino 2007 – a real little star, lovely fruit that jumps out at you, still primary but so enjoyable now
Biserno 2006 – Mellow and together, good if without the excitement of the 2007
Biserno 2007 – The star for me on the night as it is just a shade easy to appreciate at this early stage. The structure is there but does not hide anything, masculine but delicately so…one to follow
Lodovico 2007 – Dense yet fresh, dark fruits and rich texture, a long life ahead but all constituent parts are there…impressive and showing a little muscle…exciting
For more information about Tenuta di Biserno, click here
To watch Lodovico’s interview with Adam Lechmere, please click below:
Source: Decanter, November 2010