Two days, two regions, two producers… A once in a life time trip to Spain!
It’s no secret that Spanish wines are my true passion, so you can imagine my reaction when I was invited to accompany Alison and Adam on their annual buying trip to Ribera del Duero and Rioja. We would spend one full day visiting Peter Sisseck in Quintanilla de Onesimo / Pesquera de Duero and Benjamin Romeo in San Vicente de la Sonsierra. A once in a life time trip to go behind the scenes to appreciate the men behind their highly-acclaimed, much-loved and coveted wines.
Monday, 14th June.
Up at 6.30, tired but raring to go. We jumped in the car, drove to Quintanilla de Onesimo and met Peter Sisseck at Dominio de Pingus, situated very close to the Duero River.
Had a great tour of the office, lab, winery and cellars (pictured) all of which are a fabulous mix of traditional and modern architecture, décor and technology. An 18th century cellar, a white-washed winery with vast glass panels, huge new open barriques for Pingus and state-of-the-art stainless steel vats. A small office filled with modern leather sofas, glossy white furniture, Apple computers, a Samsung sound system and a lab with all sorts of mind-boggling scientific equipment; bunsen burners, test tubes, monitors, you name it! All very impressive and credit to Peter’s vision and attention to detail.
Conscious of time, we cracked on with tasting. We were here to taste the 2009 vintage, to be released in the Autumn. A wonderful year in Spain according to Peter…
Psi (my score 18) was gorgeous. Black forest gateaux in liquid form. Ripe, supple, balanced, fine, fresh and long. A definite buy-to-drink or keep. “I have found my direction with this wine”, said Peter.
Flor de Pingus (my score 18-19) A-MAZ-ING! Sexy yet elegant. Warm christmas pudding with extra spice and citrus lift. Explosive flavours. Silky texture and well integrated, fruit coated tannin. Refined minerality. Hallmark freshness, purity and length. My desert island red. If only Peter made more!
Pingus (my score 19) Knock Out! SUPER CHARGED FLOR! Lost for words…
(All made from 100% Tempranillo).
We also tasted the four plots/16 barrels comprising of Pingus (T1, 2, 3 & 4 are pictured). I wont give away Peter’s magic formula but I will say that they are all very different in brilliant ways, hence the amazing complexity of the wine. We looked on with amazement as Peter orchestrated a blend for us.
And finally…a rosé! Earlier in the cellars Adam spotted a palate of bottled rosé…interesting, we all thought. Peter said it was just something he drank with friends in the summer and commented on the levels of glycerin being too high. Of course we had to try the wine when Peter offered.
Rosé 2009 (pictured) Peter was right about the texture, it was a little clawing. That said it was quite a serious, clairette style of rose – a little dry and in need of food.
Tasting over we made our way to Hacienda Monasterio, (Peter’s other estate, pictured) situated in Pesquera de Duero, a 10 minute drive away. This beautiful estate comprises of 113 hectares, 70 hectares of which are under vine. It lies between the famous vineyards of Pesquera and Vega Sicilia.
On arrival we met Carlos (co-owner) and Carlos (co-winemaker) and tasted the 2007, 08 & 09 vintages. I was most impressed by the recently bottled 2008.
Hacienda Monasterio 2008 (my score 17+). Cabernet Sauvignon (typically 75%) and Tempranillo. Cassis, wild herbs and underbrush. Generous layered black fruit. Could be riper? Well integrated fine tannin. Has the finesse, purity and elegance of a fine Claret.
I had a quick nose around the cellars, took more pics and then we sat down for a light lunch ‘cheffed’ up by Peter himself. We drank the beautiful, velvety 2001 with our Tortilla, Jamon Iberico and bread.
We said our goodbyes at 2.00, jumped back in the car and got straight on to the A1/AP-1 towards Logrono. We arrived at San Vicente de la Sonsierra at 5.00, dropped our bags and met Benjamin Romeo in the square. Soon after, we were whisked away to the vineyards in Benjamin’s BMW 4×4. I was to sit up front as this was my first visit, said Benjamin. Up and down slopes, in and out of woodland at SPEED; Benjamin drives very fast but is never out of control, knowing the vineyards like the back of his hand – he spent his childhood riding around them on a donkey. Benjamin comes from a long line of vine growers (Benjamin’s grandmother is pictured).
We saw so much on our vineyard tour; here are just a few of my highlights…driving down the river bank (Ebro) through trees, bushes, birds, insects and animals to reach an unusually sited vineyard planted with red and white vines…and being helped up the slope and Alison being caught on the way down. Looking out over ‘La Liande’ (pictured) which is the single vineyard of LaViña de Andres. Jumping out of the car to see a new plot/potential site for another Bodegas and being hit by the most intense scent of wild herbs (fennel, rosemary and lavender). Benjamin picking us wild flowers (ah).
Going to the ‘Cueva del Contador’ (pictured right) which is a cellar/cave beneath the Church of Santa Maria la Mayor and tasting Carmen (2007) for the first time – a wine dedicated to his mother. 
Finally arriving at the breathtaking Bodegas Contador (pictured left) first opened in 2008 which seamlessly integrates into the landscape. Like Pingus the design is modern, simplistic, clean and precise. No expense has been spared. The huge black and white Velázquez ‘The Drunks’ print in the entrance, the solid oak walls, floors and staircases and the flowers, herbs and vegetables planted in the grounds. I had seriously underestimated the size and competency of Benjamin’s operation and vision.
At 9.30pm our tour ended and off we trotted up stairs to the tasting room. We sat on high stools at a table which overlooked the vineyards at sunset…beautiful. We were here to taste 2008 reds and 2009 whites (released in the autumn) but Benjamin had something else, something very special up his sleeve – the first ever vertical tasting of La Viña de Andres from the first vintage, 2001 to 2008 (pictured). We were making history.
La Viña de Andres 100% Tempranillo. A cuvée dedicated to his father. Limited production averaging 5,500 bottles. Single vineyard ‘La Liande’ in San Vicente de la Sonsierra. Alluvial-calcareous soils. 1 kg production per vine! 18 months in new French oak.
Knock out vintages were 2001 (my score 18+), ‘04 (my score 19), ‘06 (my score 18) & ‘08 (my score 18+). Benjamin’s star and my buy is La Viña de Andres 2006. The ‘08 was so sexy it made me blush! ‘02 and ‘03 were great surprises; La Viña de Andres 2002 for its concentration in a wet year (“What Romeo has achieved in the challenging 2002 vintage is impressive”, Robert Parker) and ‘03 for its remarkable backbone. Benjamin has been working hard on balancing acidity, structure and minerality. The layers of flavours and complexity just build and build then explode in this wine. The consistency of style and quality was great to see. It was an emotional experience for all involved. Benjamin had shown to us, his friends, team and himself how great a wine maker he really is. He translates vintages and expresses terroir with passion and precision.
The quality of the 2008s is very high and the white 2009s are just spectacular – for relative value buy Predicador Blanco (my score 18) 78% Viura, 11% Garnacha Blanca and 11% Malvasia. Floral, ripe white fruit, citrus, mineral and fresh and La Viña de Andres (my score 18+) phenomenally pure, intense, explosive ripe fruit with sweet tannins and minerality…oh mamma!
Tasting over I glanced at my watch and it was 11.30…time for dinner?! Benjamin led us back down stairs, through the winery and into his kitchen/diner/patio. What better way to celebrate the day’s delights than with a BBQ cooked up by Benjamin and his team? We warmed by the embers as the mini lamb chops grilled under the moonlight. We finished off our fabulous day laughing and joking over a wonderful feast of lamb chops, hams, fresh vegetables, bread, cheese, chocolate and La Viña de Andres…not forgetting our starter of pickled white asparagus and Que Bonita Cacareaba 2003 (my score 17+) the perfect food and wine match.
I was so sad to leave at 2.00 am but very ready for my bed after nearly 19 hours on the go.
I smiled myself to sleep that night…what a very lucky young lady from Essex (sorry Peter, I couldn’t resist) I am!
