It was a sunny and hot afternoon, just as the Météo had suggested, at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris. We took the TGV straight down to Avignon, which was when we realised “I am in France, très bien!” Our schedule was very packed and as our flight had been delayed, we immediately headed down to a village in Luberon, in the Southern Rhône Valley, THE Tardieu Laurent!
Along the rolling mountain pass, we could see all the cyclists, sweating and struggling to ride to the top of the sharp slope while we were sightseeing beautiful vineyards where the steep slopes gave way to a broad valley floor under the baking hot summer sun!
Once we arrived at Tardieu Laurent, we were warmly welcomed by Michel and Bastien Tardieu, who took us straight down to the tasting room. The Domaine has now grown to 70-80 growers with a healthy relationship of more than 10 years since Michel started solo with his négociant business. Michel’s very careful about his partnerships. He believes in building healthy relationships with a network of low yield producers, who own top quality vineyards for his wine. This leads to older vines capturing good quality which is very essential to his wines. The role of oak also plays a great part in Michel’s wine making philosophy.
2011 White
It is claimed that the 2011 Rhône white stand out extraordinarily, so that’s where we began!
White wines from Michel tend to have a cooler character, yet freshness on the palate. Since 2007, Michel as a négociant has started to pick grapes from cooler regions – although Viognier tends to be ripe, open, opulent and mostly big in style, this retains its freshness. Tardieu Laurent wines are good to age for 5-6 years before drinking. We started off with Côtes du Rhône Guy Louis blanc. A blend of Marsanne mainly (70%) which comes from the northern appellation, providing minerality and weight, and the rest Rousanne, Grenache and Viognier from the south to add flavour and richness. Although Côtes du Rhône white in general would give you a warmer character, Tardieu Laurent’s Blanc focuses on freshness and the cooler character. Two thumbs up!
Condrieu was aged 100% in new oak. This has minerality, floral notes and richness. The Saint – Peray Vieilles Vignes, which again has a balance of Marsanne and Roussane to give minerality and richess, has a lighter mouthfeel and creaminess on the palate. Châteauneuf-du-pape Blanc has an oaky style, creamy and rich yet elegant.
2011 Red
Rhône reds were difficult for 2011, especially for Grenache given the weather. They say it’s a winegrower’s vintage. All the reds we have tried have a resemblance of the 04, 06 and 08 vintages with a slightly cooler mouth feel and freshness yet a deep, dark, almost sweet character. Michel has done very well for 2011. The wines are rich and packed with ripe fruit, but are not burly or brawny. Some, particularly the lesser appellations, carry a rather savage, feral note, but the great appellations of the Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cornas, Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie all show an admirable purity. There is even an elegance to them, although this is not at all to suggest the wines are light. It is more truthful to say they are well poised yet intense, but with elegance.
Trying out different reds from 2011 at the same time is very exciting. We started with wines from the Southern Rhône – Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cornas, Gigondas, with all Vieilles Vignes. We tried Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011 Vieilles Vignes and the Cuvée Spéciale, both of which were classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape in style, very concentrated. Michel compares the style of his Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011 to his 2006. The Cornas is a very old school style brimming with blackcurrants, rich, gutsy and with strong, but fine tannins. It is obvious that this comes from the warmest area in the Rhône, the closest to the sun on a 45 degree angle slope.
In the Northern Rhône, the most outstanding wines from 2011 were Crozes-Hermitage Vieilles Vignes and Saint-Joseph Vieilles Vignes. The latter has a very white peppery, violet and liquorish smell. This is very much Côte-Rotie in style. The Hermitage is very powerful and massive, yet very aromatic and I would say precise on the palate. Surely a great wine to watch develop and certainly wines for the long haul – from a good vintage many will be at their best when they are at least fifteen or twenty years old.