Pretty dull and overcast but sun fighting to force through…A trip to a more general négociant tasting was first up this morning. An interesting opportunity to get a feel for the overall quality of the vintage from all the key appellations, including dry whites and stickies. We had an hour and a quarter before we had to hot foot it across the river to meet up with François Mitjavile (on the right below) at Tertre Rôteboeuf, of which more later.

With such a small amount of time the pressure was on. It quickly became apparent that St-Julien was one of the more successful communes. Elsewhere though, there was definitely not the homogeneous success we might have anticipated. Yes there were some undoubted triumphs, including, in no particular order Pichon-Lalande, Beauséjour-Bécot, Cantemerle, Léoville-Barton and Rauzan’s Gassies and Ségla. Margaux too seems to have produced some good wines with the Cantenac’s – Brane and Brown both turning in strong efforts.

However, our comments turned towards the wines that were less than successful, naming no names, but they had a distinct forced, extracted nature to them. Too many tasting notes ended with comments like, “drying tannins” or “searing tannins”. Despite there being some sensational wines there was a bit of a deflated feel that this was perhaps not the vintage to beat them all.

Tertre Rôteboeuf on the other hand was a different case altogether. What a spectacular range of wines, produced by one of the most dynamic and maverick producers I have ever had the pleasure to meet. Francois Mitjavile produces two wines on the Right Bank, Roc de Cambes in the Côtes de Bourg and Tertre Rôteboeuf in St-Emilion. Both sit on amazing terroir of deep clay and limestone. After a guided tour of Tertre Rôteboeuf we went down to taste the wines in the cellar. Sadly Bryce is still not talking to Simon and I after we explained that the first wine offered, 2006 Tertre Rôteboeuf, we had tasted just last week! Sorry Bryce.

2009 Roc and Tertre were quite exceptional and without a shadow of a doubt amongst the very best wines we have tasted thus far. Tertre was unbelievable, having only stopped fermenting 10 days ago. Yes, that really says just ten days ago.

These wines have such amazing purity, texture and opulence of fruit, one almost feels that you could drink them now. Given that 09 was the year my daughter was born, these two will definitely be on the shopping list.

We enjoyed a superb lunch with Francois and his wife accompanied by 1992 and 1989 Tertre Rôteboeuf. The 1992 was lovely; light and soft but given the amazing rains during harvest and vintage it was an incredible success. 1989 was what François described as a “difficult vintage” as was his 2008. Here the fermentation finally stopped in June, yes June, all full 8 months after harvesting. An amazing wine with wonderful, sweet, decadent fruit and amazing intensity – stunning.

Although we had another tasting to head to, there was a distinct theme to the afternoon. We departed Tertre heading for the beautiful rolling hills of the Côtes de Castillon, and François’ son’s property, Domaine de l’Aurage. Work has been going on a pace since Louis took over and the differences are evidet in both vineyard, cellar and most importantly the wines themselves. As with Roc de Cambes, l’Aurage punches seriously above its weight.

After a sleepy trip back to Bordeaux, we gathered for dinner in the Bordeaux institute that is Les Noailles. Good food including yet more beef (I am sure we have eaten a full cow already), was washed down with a bottle of 2007 Carbonnieux Blanc (good but a little too young still) and 2006 Malartic La Gravière. The more I taste 2006 the more I am enjoying them. Wonderful supple fruit and a lovely rich core all wrapped around juicy tannins.

Off to bed, big day tasting the majority of the first growths tomorrow.