Although all the talk at the moment is about Bordeaux 2009, that was put to one side last night for a magnificent feast of fine red Burgundy. The burgundy in question was Clos de Tart, the magnificent monopole grand cru from Morey-St-Denis. 70 burgundophiles gathered in Forbes House in Belgravia to taste eight wines from six different vintages spanning almost fifteen years. Forbes house is an amazing Georgian House and a terrific venue for the tasting. Rumours were rife last night that the house has been bought and is soon to be turned back into a private residence.

Anyway, enough of the venue, on to the wines. Sylvan Pitiot the manager of Clos de Tart had flown in specially to present this flight of wines. He joined the Domaine back in 1996 and is almost solely responsible for putting Clos de Tart firmly back on the map after a number of years in the wilderness. The history of this incredible piece of land is unique, having only had three owners since the 12th century. Today it is in the hands of the Mommessin family.

Although there is only one vineyard in the Domaine, in some vintages (but not all) a second wine is produced, La Forge de Tart. We kicked off the tasting with the two most recent vintages, 2007 and 2008. Both were delicious and impressive but in very different styles. The 2008 has a wonderfully rich, succulent feel to it, bursting with bramble and sweet raspberry fruit with just a hint of spice. The 2007 was more floral and elegant and a little more closed after the exuberant 2008. It was then on to the grand vin. Again we tried first the 2008 and then the 2007. As with the Forge de Tart, the 2008 exploded out of the glass with a profusion of rich, sweet fruit, violets, roses and minerals. The 2007 was a more reserved, quieter, older sister but with wonderful depth and complexity. Having thoroughly enjoyed the two vintages of La Forge, one quickly became aware of it limitations when compared directly with the grand vin. The step up in concentration, intensity and depth was impressive.

The next flight took us back to the beginning of the century and 2001, 2002 and 2003 although not actually in that order. 2002 was first up. Still amazingly youthful, the fruit here was rich and sweet again but there was a hint of VA on the nose. Certainly the raw materials are all there for this wines’ future but it was just not on top form tonight. The 2001 by contrast was arguably the wine of the evening. Again young but absolutely singing with fruit, leather, game, violets a full orchestra or flavours and aromas. Sylvain mentioned that he believes the 2008 will turn into a very similar wine – wow. Last wine of this flight was the controversial 2003, a marmite vintage and a marmite wine. Hedonistic is the word that springs to mind when tasting the 2003. It is luscious and voluptuous and heady and totally atypical but somehow it works. Probably not one for the burgundy purist but if you are a pleasure seeker then you will be in paradise.

Our last wine was a visit to Sylvain’s first vintage at the Domaine, 1996. Such an amazing contrast to the 2003 that preceded it; paler in colour, more tertiary and savoury in its aromas and with more marked freshness and acidity. Wonderful wine though and a glimpse into what this wine can become.

We all departed in very good spirits having been captivated by this incredible piece of land.