The top 10 at Corney & Barrow
18 Aug 2011 by Richard Hemming, JancisRobinson.com
Corney & Barrow very kindly offered subscribers to this site some free tickets to their summer tasting in June. They didn’t come without a catch, however, since I asked the lucky few to rank and score their top 10 wines of the tasting. So, many thanks to Tim Jackson, Mark Chenhall, Andy MacFaul, Leigh Johnson and Nick Davidson for sharing their thoughts with us.
It was an informal experiment that nonetheless yielded strong results. All three of the J J Prüm Rieslings that were on show appear in our aggregate top 10. As Mark commented, ‘they are just so good, and their combination of fruit, acidity and precise minerality make for a compelling mouthful of wine’.
The Achaval Ferrer wines were all highly thought of too, with Finca Bella Vista at number 2 in the charts (and Finca Mirador at number 11) – although Tim comments that they are ‘all well made, clearly, but in an overly hedonistic alcoholic fashion that Argentina doesn’t need to own’.
The Romeo Rioja at number 4 also split opinion, with several of us noting its relentlessly modern and powerful style – although all agreeing it is impressive. There was general admiration for the Delamotte champagnes too, with the newly released Blanc de Blancs 2002 the overall preference.
Looking at the list as a whole, it has a pleasingly catholic range of origin and style – a credit to to Corney & Barrow’s buying team. It also illustrates reassuringly varied taste from our five volunteers. It doesn’t feature much in the way of bargains, however, and indeed the whole portfolio is stoutly priced.
Thanks again to Tim, Mark, Andy, Leigh, Nick and all at Corney & Barrow for their help.
The aggregate top 10, compiled from the rankings from all six of us, is as follows:
1. J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2009 Mosel
2 .Achaval Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2007 Mendoza
3. Biserno, Il Pino di Biserno 2007 IGT Toscana
4. Benjamin Romeo, La Cueva del Contador 2007 Rioja
5. René Rostaing, Cuvée Les Terroirs 2008 Côte Rôtie
6. J J Prüm, Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2008 Mosel
7. Giacomo Conterno, Cascia Francia 2008 Barbera d’Alba
8. J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel
9. Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 Champagne
10. Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa Valley
My full notes follow below, ordered by style and country or region. Within each section they are grouped by colour and then listed alphabetically by producer (sur)name.
CHAMPAGNE
Delamotte, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 Champagne 16.5 Drink 2011-2014
Cream cheese on the nose, then toast on the palate. Light bodied, ephemeral, perhaps missing a bit of vim, but a classy number nonetheless. (RH) 12%
£39.99 Corney & Barrow
ROSÉ
Olivier Leflaive, Cuvée Margoton Rosé 2009 Bourgogne 15 Drink 2010-2011
Very light. Not sure it tastes of anything really. (RH) 12.5%
£10.99 Corney & Barrow
Ch Léoube, Le Secret de Léoube Rosé 2010 Côtes de Provence 16.5 Drink 2011-2012
Made by Jean-Jaques Ott, who sold his eponymous winery to Louis Roederer in 2000. It has all the mineral quality and texture of the best Provence rosé but with more concentration, fullness and body than most. (RH) 13%
£19.99 Corney & Barrow
Ch Léoube, Rosé 2010 Côtes de Provence 16 Drink 2011-2012
Gentle, definite mineral scent. Peachy and floral. Very slight but very good at what it does. (RH) 12.5%
£13.99 Corney & Barrow
Tissier, Rosé 2010 Sancerre 16 Drink 2011-2012
Leafy, good level of red cherry and lemon sherbet flavour. Dry, refreshing. (RH) 12.5%
£14.99 Corney & Barrow
ARGENTINA
Dominio de Toyo Torrontés/Chardonnay 2010 Famatina Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Smells much more like Torrontés than Chardonnay. Soapy. Steep at the price. (RH) 12.5%
£7.29 Corney & Barrow
J & F Lurton, Gran Lurton Corte Friulano 2009 Uco Valley 16.5 Drink 2011-2014
Oak comes through well: creamy spicy, vanilla – quite thick on the tongue. Long, smoky finish. Not for the oakophobic. (RH) 13%
£14.29 Corney & Barrow
Achaval-Ferrer, Quimera 2008 Mendoza 16+ Drink 2012-2015
Scented, fragrant, vibrant fruit but quite austere and unyielding on the palate. Needs time – a sleeping giant. (RH) 14%
£24.99 Corney & Barrow
Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Mirador Malbec 2007 Medrano 17 Drink 2011-2017
Clay vineyard at 2,600 feet above sea level. Blueberries, cherries, loads of purity and length. Has all the character of Malbec without the spoofy overkill. (RH) 14%
£51.99 Corney & Barrow
Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2007 Mendoza 16.5+ Drink 2013-2017
Limestone vineyard at 3,100 feet above sea level. More tannic and taut than the Mirador. Fine yet muscular. Little complexity – as of yet? (RH) 14%
£51.99 Corney & Barrow
Dominio de Toyo Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2010 Famatina Valley 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
A bit reductive in a not unattractive way. Light but not watery. Easy drinking, satisfyingly dry. (RH) 12.5%
£7.29 Corney & Barrow
Ruca Malen, Kinien Malbec 2007 Mendoza 16+ Drink 2011-2013
Violets, plums, creamy vanilla oak. Dry tannins, full and powerful, high acid. Nice development – and still more to come, it seems. (RH) 14%
£19.99 Corney & Barrow
AUSTRALIA & SOUTH AFRICA
Heywood Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2010 South Eastern Australia 15 Drink 2011
Neutral, light grass and lime. Decent but undistinguished. (RH) 11.5%
£7.99 Corney & Barrow
Old Vines Wine Cellars Chenin Blanc 2009 Stellenbosch 15 Drink 2011
Dry, a bit cheesy. Ripe enough though rather wishy-washy overall. (RH) 13%
£9.29 Corney & Barrow
Eagle Vale Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2008 Margaret River 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Green pepper, black cherry, smooth and drinkable but with a herbal dominance that is a bit overblown. (RH) 14%
£12.49 Corney & Barrow
Mont du Toit 2003 Wellington 16.5 Drink 2007-2011
Very ripe blackcurrants, dark liquorice, tar and aniseed. Dense, heavy and oaked. (RH) 14%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow
Nelson Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2003 Paarl 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Ripe blackcurrant, tomato stalk, light body and some chocolate and smoke to finish. Pretty tannic, though finely chiselled. (RH) 13.5%
£13.99 Corney & Barrow
CALIFORNIA & CHILE
**Carmel Road Riesling 2009 Monterey County 16 Drink 2011-2014
Lime, lemongrass plus some unexpected honey on the palate. Dry finish, but then lots of opulent stone fruit which undermines the Riesling-ness. (RH) 13%
£14.39 Corney & Barrow
**Carmel Road Pinot Noir 2009 Monterey County 17 Drink 2011-2014
Luscious red fruit with cordial style concentration. Sweet and fruit-centric, but dry on the finish. Not for Pinot purists, but a good example in the oversized mode. (RH) 14%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow
Viña Mar, Reserva Pinot Noir 2010 Casablanca Valley 14.5 Drink 2011-2012
Very tame nose. Light, a bit meaningless, not a good buy at the price. Nowhere near as good as their 2008 was. (RH) 14%
£9.99 Corney & Barrow
Rosario Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Central Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Bit of reduction, vibrant blackcurrant juice. Prominent oak but nicely handled. Technical but quaffable. (RH) 13%
£6.99 Corney & Barrow
San Pedro, 1865 Single Vineyard Carmenère 2009 Maule Valley 15 Drink 2011-2013
Medicinal, syrupy fruit. Floaty, sweet oak – unintegrated. Peppery finish adds a bit of interest. Not bad, just not as premium as it tries to be. (RH) 14.5%
£12.99 Corney & Barrow
FRENCH WHITE
**Henri Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Vin de Pays du Val de Loire 15 Drink 2011-2012
Grassy, very hard and citric. Sour finish. Hard. (RH) 12.5%
£9.99 Corney & Barrow
André et Edmond Figeat, Les Chaumiennes 2010 Pouilly-Fumé 15.5 Drink 2011-2012
Mineral, smoke, slate – very true. Austere, bitter juniper finish. Initially appealing but seems a bit too bitter to enjoy in quantity. (RH) 13%
£13.79 Corney & Barrow
Ch Grinou, La Combe de Grinou 2009 Bergerac 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
60% Sémillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc. Green pepper, lime, very sharp but not over-zealous acid. Dry, plump, floral. (RH) 12%
£8.29 Corney & Barrow
FRENCH RED
**Bosquet des Papes, Chante le Merle 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 17 Drink 2010-2016
Bronzed colour. Some meat and gravy on the palate, lots of concentration, ultra smooth tannic paste. As warm and inviting as a fireside. (RH) 13.5%
£46.89 Corney & Barrow
**Bourg, Les Graviers 2009 St-Nicolas de Bourgueil 16 Drink 2011-2014
Fragrant, leathery, luxurious. Bit of green leaf for authenticity – bright pink hue, tame tannins, a few sprinkles of dark chocolate. (RH) 12.5%
£12.49 Corney & Barrow
Jean-Pierre Moueix, Corney & Barrow Company Reserve 2005 Bordeaux 15.5 Drink 2008-2011
Light, rather fruitless. Liquorice and a touch of toast to finish, but rather dull. Drink now. (RH) 13%
£11.49 Corney & Barrow
René Rostaing, Cuvée Les Terroirs 2008 Côte Rôtie 17 Drink 2013-2018
in 2008, Rostaing blended the three separate cuvées he usually makes into one wine. Really peppered. Violets, blackberries and seared meat. Youthful – too keen, needs time. Plenty of acid to last. (RH) 13.5%
£34.99 Corney & Barrow
Saissac Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 IGP Pays d’Oc 16 Drink 2011-2015
Subtle black fruit perfume with chocolate, dark spice, melded tannins and a slight bitter twist. VGV (RH) 13%
£7.49 Corney & Barrow
Tardieu Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2008 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 16 Drink 2011-2015
Scented and perfumed on the nose, with a gravelly texture on the palate and plenty of heat on the finish – better integration than their 08 Rasteau. (RH) 14.5%
£39.19 Corney & Barrow
Tardieu Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2008 Rasteau 15.5 Drink 2011-2013
Ripe cherry cake nose. Bit of VA lurking about, and a little spirity too. (RH) 14%
£16.59 Corney & Barrow
GERMANY
J J Prüm, Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2008 Mosel 16.5 Drink 2011-2021
Slate and steel, tropical lime, fragrant and spicy. Babyfaced, but approachable now. Much less abrasive and therefore much more appealing than the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett. (RH) 9.5%
£25.29 Corney & Barrow
J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Ausese Goldkapsel 2009 Mosel 17.5+ Drink 2014-2029
Only primary now, but the balance and length attests to its longevity. Wonderful honeyed purity. Every adjective you can think of for Riesling is here. Very very long and sweet to finish. (RH) 7.5%
£64.69 Corney & Barrow
J J Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel 16 Drink 2011-2016
So pungent! Really very extreme – perhaps too sulphurous. I tasted this recently in my MW exam and it perplexed me then too. (RH) 9.5%
£20.19 Corney & Barrow
ITALY
Il Carretto, Blanco 2010 IGT Sicilia 15 Drink 2011-2012
Almond and marzipan fragrance plus banana and white pepper. Tastes like Fiano plus Grüner Veltliner plus Viognier (turns out it’s Grillo). Bit floral for some, but good enough for the money. (RH) 12%
£6.49 Corney & Barrow
Cecilia Beretta, Masseria Bianca Fiano 2010 IGT Salento 15.5 Drink 2011-2012
Aromatic, rich and viscous. Firm, with a bit of phenolic grip. Bitters to finish. (RH) 14%
£7.99 Corney & Barrow
**Enrico Santini, Campo alla Casa 2009 Bolgheri 15 Drink 2011-2012
Grapefruit, banana, rather sharply acidic. Plus there’s an aftershave type of flavour. Bit of a mish-mash. (RH) 13.5%
£14.99 Corney & Barrow
Biserno, Il Pino di Biserno 2007 IGT Toscana 17 Drink 2011-2016
Blackcurrant, truffle, mushroom, earth. Leaf litter on the palate, wonderful creaminess, tannins are loose but supportive. Fine acid. (RH) 14%
£38.99 Corney & Barrow
Il Carretto 2010 IGT Puglia 16 Drink 2011-2014
Simple, cheery cherry fruit. Very drinkable, soft and balanced with a good savoury dryness and respectable length. GV (RH) 12%
£6.49 Corney & Barrow
Giacomo Conterno, Cascina Francia 2008 Barbera d’Alba 16 Drink 2011-2016
Green leaf, black cherry. Dark, impenetrable. Bit of funk on the palate – seems all a bit overbearing to me. Youthful, for sure, but rather heavily extracted too. (RH) 14.5%
£36.69 Corney & Barrow
PORTUGAL
Quinta da Chocapalha, Reserva 2008 Lisboa 17 Drink 2011-2013
Flinty and broad like Meursault – the spitting image! Nicely constructed, long smoky finish. Excellent. (RH) 13%
£17.99 Corney & Barrow
Wine and Soul, Guru 2008 Douro 16.5+ Drink 2011-2013
Tangerine, flowers, nuts, bitter almonds, very serious and firm. Probably needs a few years yet – but it’s already showing signs of oxidation, so not too long. (RH) 12.5%
£27.49 Corney & Barrow
Wine and Soul, Pintas Character 2007 Douro 15.5 Drink 2011-2014
Something funky this way comes. Definite fungal character. Not necessarily unattractive, but too dominant. Very dry and unforgiving. (RH) 14.5%
£26.99 Corney & Barrow
SPAIN
Roqueta, Mas Oliveras Macabeo/Chardonnay 2010 Catalunya 14.5 Drink 2011
Nutty, clinical, full bodied. Dry and textural but crude. (RH) 13%
£7.49 Corney & Barrow
Benjamín Romeo, Predicador Blanco 2009 Rioja 16 Drink 2011-2014
Lovely generous oak, really custardy and powerful. Very much the modern style – oak über alles. (RH) 13.5%
£23.69 Corney & Barrow
Benjamín Romeo, Predicador 2007 Rioja 16+ Drink 2012-2017
Very closed nose. Better brightness on the palate, but all a bit serious. Needs food, time or both! (RH) 14%
£24.29 Corney & Barrow
Benjamín Romeo, La Cueva del Contador 2007 Rioja 16.5+ Drink 2013-2023
Dry, quite light bodied. Substantial tannins, but very drinkable. Dry, bold – perhaps a bit too flashy and over-exuberant. (RH) 14%
Visit www.corneyandbarrow.com or call 020 7265 2430 to buy these wines.