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August 9, 2011

Hyde de Villaine & Champagne Delamotte 2002

Hdv WinesAs expected it didn’t prove the toughest sell looking for forty people to join us at the Devonshire Terrace restaurant and sample the new vintages of both Champagne House Delamotte and the Hyde de Villaine portfolio from California, a recent addition to Corney and Barrow’s range.  Having been recently refurbished this was a great choice of venue, with its cracking atmosphere only heightening everyone’s anticipation to try these great wines.

Champagne Delamotte 2002A particularly muggy evening led many to take solace on the balcony, and a chilled glass of Delamotte 2002 proved the perfect accompaniment.   The 2002 vintage has received unanimous praise with many comparing its potential to the glorious 1990.  In my opinion, Delamotte is one of the best value Champagnes, and this marvellous Blanc de Blanc 2002 has the power and precision to age for many years to come.  2002 is one of the top vintages over the last 25 years and its freshness and structure rings true here in a seriously refined manner.  A mineral backbone with a delicate, creamy mousse that will gain more texture with age will knit further complexity into this outstanding wine.  Stick some away for a few years and you will have incredible champagne with bottle age that will be almost impossible to rival at its price.

Hyde de Villaine is a joint venture in Carneros, California between two viticultural behemoths with the de Villaine and Hyde families calling on 400 years of history and experience between them.  In comparison to both the Sonoma and Napa valleys, Carneros is famed for its cooler, more moderate climate and this is immediately evident in their 2008 Chardonnay.  I love this wine, a pleasant richness and weight with purity and minerality underlying. A delicate touch of oak brings together the sensual mouthfeel and superb balance throughout the wine. Blind, you could mistake for Corton-Charlemagne or top end Pernand-Vergelesse, a seriously good Carneros Chardonnay at incredible value.Launch Devonshire Terrace

The hallmark of all the Hyde de Villaine wines is their inimitable minerality alongside a clear expression of terroir, and their two reds emphasise this in abundance.  The 2007 Californio Syrah is a wine I really rate.  It is in no way a full, over extracted, monstrously spicy Syrah that can reside in the New World. It is much more subtle, pure, with a gentle hint of white pepper and herbaceous tones captured in total balance. It reminded me of a supercharged St-Joseph with a deft sweep of acidity.  HdV’s Bordeaux blend, the 2007 Belle Cousine, was not as muscular or powerful as the 2006 with a more accessible and generous style of fruit alongside a gentle hint of white pepper and herbaceous notes.  Deep and somewhat lush, the balance is divine with a fresh lift which will continue to be so for the next 10 years plus.  I’d love to see this wine in another three years when it’s properly starting to hit its stride.

With spirits at a high after such a great tasting we headed for some food, and in particular prawn tempura and steak at Goodman’s steakhouse on Old Jewry.  James Gannon, the restaurant manager, didn’t need the greatest persuasion skills to whet our appetites and after enjoying some of the most amazingly succulent beef, there is little doubt that this is one of our favourite restaurants in London.  The only thought that lingered on my mind was where my glass of Syrah had gone….

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