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July 15, 2010

Olivier Leflaive Entertains Shoreditch House

Olivier Leflaive at Shoreditch House

I can’t quite say that my first blog for C&B was by popular demand (in truth, it was the result of a colleague asking whether I would like to, at the same time as handing me a glass of Cuvée Margoton rosé on the evening of this event) but perhaps the reviews will be kind enough to persuade me to put virtual pen to paper in the future.

Anyway, I know that I’m not alone in being a big fan of the wines of Olivier Leflaive and so I certainly didn’t need asking twice to join Olivier, colleagues and customers at last Thursday’s dinner. I did ask some careful questions about the dress code at Shoreditch House, the particularly ‘media/trendy’ venue for our event, but was grateful to be reassured that a pencil tie and aviator sunglasses were not compulsory and that something more conventional was totally acceptable.

The venue, in fact, was fantastic and in many ways a  reflection of the wine we were tasting: some of the great hallmarks of Olivier Leflaive are that he makes very ‘serious’ bottles of wine but ones that are also very approachable, even in relative youth, and representative of their own particular region. Without exception, every wine we tasted on Thursday, either before or during dinner, also showed what I think is an incredible consistency in Olivier’s style and quality. Testament, actually, to the fact that Olivier (together with Franck Grux) does actually make his wine, unlike many Burgundy négociants.

The three of the stars of the night for me (a totally subjective opinion – everyone at my table had increasingly vocal differences of opinion) were the Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles 2008, St Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2008 and the Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot 2007. I’ll continue to recommend the first pair (to anyone that will listen) as some of the very best value wines to be found in the Côte d’Or.  The latter I first had the pleasure of tasting nearly two years ago and it’s certainly becoming even more impressive as time goes by. Not bad with guinea fowl, either…

Olivier himself was also on excellent form last week. Despite having arrived from Burgundy by tractor that afternoon (apparently), one of the region’s biggest stars took to the stage at Shoreditch House with the all the confidence and humour of an East End stand-up act. Sarah Brown (wife of our most recent ex-PM) was eating elsewhere in the building that evening and, given the laughter and chatter coming from our room, I’m sure she must have known she was missing out on something special. Not the only thing these days, I suppose…

Still, this was a brilliant night for those who were there. And for those who weren’t… just take my word for it and buy some of Olivier’s wines.

Guests and C&B Staff at the Olivier Leflaive Tasting and Dinner - Shoreditch House

Tasting of  the 2008 Vintage:
Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles 2008
Auxey-Duresses La Macabrée 2008
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2008
Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots 2008
Bourgogne Rosé Cuvée Margoton 2008

Dinner:
Starters with Puligny-Montrachet Les Meix 2007
Beef carpaccio, rocket, parmesan
Calamari fritti
Walnut, spinach & goat cheese salad
Buffalo ricotta ravioli, cherry tomatoes &basil

Main with Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts 2007 and Chassagne-Montrachet Les Blanchots 2007
Guinea Fowl, sautéed potatoes and seasonal vegetables

Cheeseboard with Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot 2007

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