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June 16, 2009

Olivier Leriche – Dom de L’Arlot…plus Ascot Day 1

Olivier Leriche has been with Arlot since 1998 and has gradually taken over all the winemaking. The estate has run on a fully Biodynamic basis since 2000. The style is atypical for Nuits-Saint-Georges in that it is all about femininity and elegance, there is no quest for dark colours or big structure and this comes out so well in 2007. Harvest of 2007 started on 31st August (a full four weeks before the 2008!!), the characteristics are light colours (very thin skins), good minerality, acidity and freshness. The wines below are all the finished product with the reds bottled between the end of January and early March and the whites having been bottled in December. Olivier spoke very well but was keen to let the wines do the real talking…they didn’t disappoint.

Whites
Nuits-Saint-Georges La Gerbotte Blanc
The young (14-15yr old) vines of Clos de Arlot Blanc, 1yr in oak (10% new the rest 3/4/5yrs old). Lovely nose, palate is delicious, very mineral with a beautiful texture. For a “young vines” wine, it is very impressive. 16-17, drink now to 2014.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de l’Arlot Blanc
25-50yr old vines. Gorgeous hint of honey, nougat and a few nuts on the nose with a little hint of smoke, actually far more elegant that that sounds. Zest and minerality on the palate – delicious. 17+, 2011 onwards.

Reds
Cotes de Nuits Village Clos du Chapeau
Very pale, beautifully classical Pinot nose, fresh, elegant, and aromatic. 15% new wood the rest 3-4yrs old. Good acidity and no lack of ripe but light structure on the palate. 16+, drink 2010 onwards

Nuits-Saint-Georges Le Petit Arlot
The young (8-9yr old) vines of Clos de Arlot, (20% new wood the rest 3-5yrs old). Lovely light colour again, real depth of fruit. Similar character to Clos de Chapeau but richer and a little more dense with more grip. 16++, 2011-2016.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Petits Arlot
The young vines (18-20yr old) of Clos de Forets St Georges. A little darker/fuller in colour, less obvious fruit and a little more masculine/earthy. More oak and a little more structure 16-17, 2012-2018.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de l’Arlot
60yr old vines – 16months in wood (30-35% new). Darker again, almost shows age. Brooding, rich and slightly high, more structured, great length. The sleeper of the pack? 16-17, 2015-2020

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de Forets St Georges
22-56yr old vines. Gorgeous nose, the richest, headiest and most delicious. The power of the fruit hit on the palate is a delight. Power and elegance. 18, 2012-2018

It was a really great tasting and brilliant to see such elegant wines that had no pretence about them…..they aren’t cheap but they are very good. The sort of wines I like!

For interest the release prices were in order above – £260, £450, £185, £230, £255, £395 & £395.

Ascot day 1 was a disaster – three poor performances from those I’d backed, not sure there will be any bets today.

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