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February 25, 2010

A White Burgundy night in Hong Kong

As many of you know, I have now moved to Hong Kong and to keep you updated with all of C&B’s endeavours in Asia and my own adventures along the way, I humbly submit this Blog to you for your enjoyment on C&B’s very smart new website!

Kung Hei Fat Choy!!

Well, it is finally the end of the year of the Ox. This means it’s time to stop dragging that heavy plough and lighten the load so you can leap into the year of the golden tiger with grace and speed!  The year ahead will be a flighty one, but ultimately very rewarding – particularly for those of you born in the year of the Sheep, Horse and Dragon (I’m reliably told…sadly this doesn’t apply to me)

For me, still relatively new to HK, I have learnt the great pleasure of being able to celebrate New Year twice as well as getting a second chance at those botched New Year’s resolutions!

***

Hong Kong has quickly become a major hub for fine wine in the world, thanks to the freshly eliminated taxes (from 80%) and fueled by China’s ever growing economy.

A new wine bar and/or merchant is opening every other day, and a wine-drinking revolution is afoot among locals and expats alike. Even a winery can be found on the 8th floor of an industrial building in Ap Lei Chau!

For a wine lover like me, being in the middle of this revolution is an incredible place to be.

Friday night, for example, was Burgundy night, and white Burgundy at that (a real treat, given that the majority of wines consumed in HK are red).

After getting hideously lost outside Mongkok MTR (the tube, but not as you know it Londoners), a lovely security man rescued me and escorted me to the 8th floor of the Langham Hotel.

Arranged on the tables were ten full glasses of delicious white Burgundy. Having done the meet and greet with Hong Kong’s wine enthusiasts and bon vivants, the tasting began.

Tasting wines

Raveneau: Chablis Les Montmains 2002

Rather a stern, almost bitter wine which filled the nose with scents of lemon sherbet and pear drops. By the end of the dinner, the wine had blossomed with more integration and weight.

William Fevre: Chablis  Les Clos 2000

A touch oxidized on the nose, but with minerally, sea shell nuances. Going back to it half an hour later, the scent of pear drops filled the glass. Good cut of acidity but somewhat austere and showing more maturity than I would have predicted.

Les Heritiers de Comtes Lafon: Macon Milly Lamartine Clos du Four 2004

-Floral, and faintly flinty. Brimming with rich, well weighted fruit; kept fresh with nice minerality running through it. Excellent for the money.

Colin Morey: Meursault 2004

-Toasty oak with hints of almonds. Missing something on the middle palate.

Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet: Meursault Les Perrieres 2004

-Creamed corn and rich, tropical ripe fruit…International in style. Well made, but lacking some refinement. Thankfully more subtle on the palate and rather good.

Carillon: Puligny Montrachet 2002

-TCA

Marc Morey: Puligny Montrachet  Les Referts 2006

-Opulent, rich, caramelly nose. Nice use of oak. Lovely acidity and stunning purity of fruit. Long, lingering finish. Delicious.

The winners of the night (and what do you know…two C&B wines!)…

Colin-Deleger: Chevalier Montrachet  2002

-Classic. Beautifully made. Rich, full and perfectly balanced. Wonderful steely minerality and a lovely finish.

Domaine Leflaive: Batard Montrachet  2001

-Sublime elegance. Nuts and rich caramel fill the nose. Oak is well worked into the background, but is in support throughout. Minerality elegantly provides a backbone to this complex masterpiece.

Bonneau de Martray: Corton Charlemagne 2001

-Subtle hints of vanilla, and dried apricots. Taut, but what a delicious and memorable finish.

***

Saturday, feeling a little on the delicate side, instead of nursing myself better the old fashioned way, I decided to head off to Middle Island off the South coast of HK Island to cut my teeth at Dragon Boating. Having never seen a Dragon Boat before, I had no idea what I was letting my sorry body in for. It’s a unique and truly amazing sport, each boat containing 18 paddlers, someone to steer and someone to beat a drum. Unlike rowing or sculling, the momentum is only generated by twisting one’s entire torso, holding the paddle in one of the most uncomfortable positions imaginable. It seems we were using muscles that most of us didn’t even know we had… until the following morning…and a further 3 days!

At the end of a very painful afternoon, all 40+ weary paddlers sat down to a sumptuous barbecue, sampling some of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club’s Wine list. A list I hope to fill with C&B wines shortly…

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