The new Burgundy vintage is always a time for excitement, 2014 is no different. No other region in the world can evoke the same sense of wonder and anticipation. As with any region, it can be tempting to stick with what you know. The same domaine year after year. There’s nothing wrong with that but sometimes, especially in uncertain years like 2014, just the difference of a couple of metres in vineyards can yield wildly different wines. You could look at Burgundy as a kind of microcosm of wine in general. There are always a few gems to be discovered no matter how well you know it. Cast your aspersions aside, here are 3 unexpectedly amazing and underrated winemakers from our Burgundy tasting.

Domaine des Varoilles

Here’s a domaine with a real story. There’s evidence that some of their vineyards were planted in the twelfth century. The domaine owns vineyards in some of the top areas round Gevrey-Chambertin. Overall its holdings are round 13 hectares around the village.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Romanee Monopole

A monopole means the producer owns the entire vineyard. Something of a rarity in modern Burgundy. Why does it matter? Well it means that the winemaker and vineyard manager have absolute control over what goes on. Meaning the wine is often much better. This from Domaine des Varoilles was fermented in about 20% new oak which gives it just enough weight to be a joy to drink. I couldn’t get over how complex it was.

Domaine Gilles Jourdan

When Clive Coates MW talks, you listen. If there’s something he doesn’t know about Burgundy, it’s not worth knowing. It’s a seriously small operation. Only a step or so ahead of garage winemaking. One word that came up again and again at our tasting was “wow”. Although the label might have “Village” on it, these are anything but.

Cote de Nuits-Village Blanc

Fairly north as non-chablis whites go. And the character of the wine more than lives up to its label. Has a richness that implies a bit of oak ageing, bucket loads of acidity and a palate much more lively than just citrus fruit that you can normally find in whites in the same price bracket. I couldn’t believe how tasty it was.

Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau

It sometimes seems more appropriate to talk of these family winemakers as dynasties rather than domaines. Paul-Joseph Cyrot established this domaine in 1920 after a decent career at Clos de Tart. His great-grandson, Olivier is now running the show. Talk about dedication.

Pommard 1er Cry Les Arvelets

From a south-facing vineyard that helps the grapes to ripen, this wine really stood out amongst a sea of Pinot Noir for its colour and nose. Every time I came back to smell it, I could detect something else. I ended up having a glass of it at the end of the tasting.

You can read about all the wines that were available to taste in our dedicated Burgundy hub.

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