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May 1, 2012

Visit to Bodegas Zugober in Alava, Spain

Belezos-Vineyard

By Robert Dudgeon

On Tuesday 6th March we arrived at Bodegas Zugober in Lapuebla de Labarca, Alava Spain and were greeted by Manuel Bernardo.Soon after his Mother, Maribel Bernardo (Eduardo was away on business that day) arrived and they showed us around their modern winery. This was a well laid out with modern equipment; all in good order and well looked after. The vats here were stainless steel, as would be expected. We were next shown the cave where the wine was stored. The different oaks from many sources used for the storage casks were pointed out and their influence on the finished wine explained.

We were then taken on a tour of their vineyards. Their wine was produced from vines in four locations locally. Two areas were on the banks of the river Ebroin Lapuela and two on higher ground. We were first taken to the river side vineyards, where their grandfather had started his wine making in the village a 100 years ago, to see one block of mature vines and another where the vines had recently been replanted and were to produce their first grapes this year. The third block of vines was on higher ground. The fourth block of vines had recently been purchased by the Bodegas and was on much higher ground where it was cooler and windier. Pruning of these vines, grown without training wires, had almost been completed. Some of these vines were 80 – 100 years old and all looked in good health.

All the vines were growing in cultivated soil to avoid any competition from grass within the rows. The stony, chalky nature of the ground ensured the soil was free draining.

Having vines at three altitudes reduces the risk of bad weather and spreads the picking period for the Bodega. In this way they can make best use of the eight hand pickers they traditionally use at harvest time. The other vineyard work is done by Manuel, who likes the tractor work, and the family.

On returning to the village we were then taken back to the old winery where we tried their wines. There were four red wines that we tasted. The Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva were a good colour, very fresh, well balanced and full of fruit and complex, a true modern Rioja. All are very drinkable and well worthy of their reasonable price. For us the star of the Bodega was an experimental wine blended by Maribel. This was an exceptional wine that, if successfully launched, will be well worth adding to any cellar.

It is evident that the whole family are passionate about their grapes and wines. Their vines are tended with love and care to produce the best grapes. Maribel Bernardo studied viniculture atMilanUniversitybefore gaining further experience at vineyards inBordeaux. She undoubtedly has a great skill in blending as all the wines we tasted at Bodega Zugober were well made, interesting and very drinkable.

We will be following these wines with interest.

Our new exclusivity Belezos, from Bodegas Zugober, is a small family winery in Rioja. Click here to buy available wines.

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